Hydraulic Steering

Rumford Grady

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I have a 1986 Seafarer 22 w/Yammy 200 O/B. I just purchased the boat last summer; thus, I'm winterizing it now for the long New England winter (sad). This is the first boat I've owned with hydraulic steering. Is there anything that needs to be done to "winterize" the hydraulic steering? Thank you for the experience.
 

uncljohn

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no, not really, but you should grease the connections annually. This also includes unhooking the cylinder arms and greasing those connections.
 

catch22

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uncljohn said:
no, not really, but you should grease the connections annually. This also includes unhooking the cylinder arms and greasing those connections.

Excellent point and something that gets overlooked.

Assuming you have Teleflex/Seastar hydraulic steering...

The cylinder brackets, which are bolted to the end of the cylinder shaft and connected to the engines support shaft, inside the tilt tube, need to be completely removed and well greased. Once you get them off, just load up the mating surfaces with grease. Pull, (or carefully tap) the support shaft out from the tilt tube, clean it up, (and inside the tube area) and grease it. With the shaft removed, you can also hit the zerk fittings on the front of the motor bracket. That way you make sure they're not plugged and you'll get some grease into the tube cavity.
If the brackets haven't been removed in a long time, it will probably be a b!tch getting them off... but, it's worth it. If they bind up, (and they do over time) they'll cause a slight twisting on the cylinder shaft which ends up wearing out the end gland seals.

Seastar faq's, (see # 33) - http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/FAQs/faqs.htm
 

uncljohn

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My cylinder was 15 years old and started leaking so I bought the re-seal package and went to undo the shaft and it was frozen solid to the bracket arm. Ended up using a blowtorch and hammer to finally bust it free. Worst part was, my engine went up a year later and I ended up replacing the whole sha-bang. Lesson learned though.
 

sluggoe

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my mechanic said no need to top-off hydraulic fluid because it is a sealed system? -----is this accurate?

slugg.
 

sluggoe

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not sure i follow....is my mechanic just being rude given that i have asked the "expert" a stupid question?

by venting, are you implying that there will always be leakage and that it needs to be topped-off every year or.....?

--slugg.
 

catch22

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sluggoe said:
not sure i follow....is my mechanic just being rude given that i have asked the "expert" a stupid question?

by venting, are you implying that there will always be leakage and that it needs to be topped-off every year or.....?

--slugg.

It is basically a "sealed" system, however the fill cap, on the helm, (fluid reservoir) is vented.

You should check the fluid level occasionally, to make sure your not losing fluid due to a leak, (typically at the cylinder shaft seals). The level should be just below the threads for the fill cap.

You should also coat the cylinder shaft seals with grease... to keep them from drying out. Just smear some grease around the face of both seals, where it meets the shaft.
 

JUST-IN-TIME

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how can it be sealed if there is a vent?

the power assist systems are sealed

trim systems are sealed :D


yes evaporation occurs at any temp, even though it is a mil spec oil
 

catch22

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JUST-IN-TIME said:
how can it be sealed if there is a vent?

the power assist systems are sealed

trim systems are sealed :D


yes evaporation occurs at any temp, even though it is a mil spec oil

The reservoir side of the system is vented... not the high pressure side. Same as a brake system on a trailer.

If your losing any fluid, it won't be due to "evaporation".. it will be because of a leak.
 

sluggoe

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sorry guys, i am a novice here:

where would the fill cap / reservoir be located on a 282 sailfish...near/under the steering wheel?

also, where is the cylinder shaft seals so i can grease....and what kind of grease should be applied?

-slugg.