Livewell Seacock

Norcoastal

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I have a 1988 Seafarer that I’ve refurbished and it came out really well. I popped a new motor on back and she runs great and everything works, except the raw water pump and wash down.

I have a new switch on it and the raw water pump runs as it should. I also installed a new selector valve that directs raw water to the live well or wash down.

My question/problem is that the rod that attaches to the raw water seacock is frozen and I can’t get the seacock to open?

Any suggestion???

Thanks in advance…
 
Seacock handles get stiff/frozen over time from non-use. There's really only two solutions... replace or start slowly exercising it with a tool or a pipe to start to free it up. Taking off the hose and spraying some lube down there could help, too. In other words, ditch the rod for now and start to manually move the handle - using tools/leverage if needed. Once you get it freed up nice and good, then you can go back to using the rod... but exercise it regularly!
 
Thanks. I think I need to remove the livewell to get to the seacock. I read somewhere to spray Aero Kroil on the valve
 
Kroil, PB Blaster, Silicone spray... they're all roughly the same for this job. But as I noted above, you really need to spray it inside - not on the outside. Spray some on the handle shaft area, too - but inside is more important.
 
Question, my 2004 180 has the original bronze seacock for the livewell, it moves but is stiff which tells me a good seal. It is a PIA to reach though an make sure it's fully shut, I have to practically climb in the access hatch and grasp it with my fingers only.
From reading above, removing the pump and getting some lube down there might ease it up but how long would that last with the pump running saltwater through it for a few hours, especially since the seacock is below the water line?
 
Question, my 2004 180 has the original bronze seacock for the livewell, it moves but is stiff which tells me a good seal. It is a PIA to reach though an make sure it's fully shut, I have to practically climb in the access hatch and grasp it with my fingers only.
From reading above, removing the pump and getting some lube down there might ease it up but how long would that last with the pump running saltwater through it for a few hours, especially since the seacock is below the water line?
re-read post #2. The lube frees it up, exercise keeps it freely moving.
 
If the fill hose does not have a check valve, you may be able to snake a quarter inch plastic tube down the drain, and pump the water out with some sort of hand pump. Use that same tube to inject the lube of your choice, wait a day, then try working the rod again. The rod should be almost vertical, and the handle at 90°, so you should be able to get a lot of force pulling straight up.
If you have refurbished the boat, but did not get in the bilge and replace the pumps, hoses, and switch, etc., or at least give them a good eyeball, then pulling the livewell is past due on an ‘88.

Some sea cocks have a bronze plug, for winterizing, right in the middle of the ball valve area. I have been known to replace that drain plug with a grease zerk.
 
If the fill hose does not have a check valve, you may be able to snake a quarter inch plastic tube down the drain, and pump the water out with some sort of hand pump. Use that same tube to inject the lube of your choice, wait a day, then try working the rod again. The rod should be almost vertical, and the handle at 90°, so you should be able to get a lot of force pulling straight up.
If you have refurbished the boat, but did not get in the bilge and replace the pumps, hoses, and switch, etc., or at least give them a good eyeball, then pulling the livewell is past due on an ‘88.

Some sea cocks have a bronze plug, for winterizing, right in the middle of the ball valve area. I have been known to replace that drain plug with a grease zerk.
That a good idea. Yes I pulled the livewell and replaced the hoses and installed a new bilge pump.