Looking potential purchase feedback

[fistful]

Obviously I am new here being my first post. I have however been lurching for a few days and benefitting from the wealth of knowledge found here....a collective thanks to all of you. Now I am at the threshold of becoming a Grady owner myself and would like to get some feed back if you care to assist me.

I am currently looking at a 1991 204C Overnighter with a 150 hp Yamaha SW2. The owner kept it in a marina (fresh water - great lakes) for a few years about 4 years back it hasn't been used since (dry stored inside since then). The bottom has never been painted and is showing some blistering in the gelcoat. Now my questions:

1. Is this hull compromised or in need of repair or is it sufficent to sand and simply bottom coat with a good barrier coat and paint? I will primarily be trailering the boat when not in use. Being the quality of a Grady is this less of an issue?

2. What is the typical cost to have this professionally cleaned and painted / coated on a boat this size?

3. Is there anything I should be worried about engine wise. From what I gather, the total number of hours on this original engine is probably less than 200-300 hours.

4. While I know this can vary widely, what would you expect this set-up to cost in it's current condition?

Outside of the issues I mentioned, this boat looks to be in very good condition. I just want to take into account an additional costs this will bring about before moving any further forward.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Clockwork]

i talked to a marine surveyor at length about gelcoat blisters. he said they are 95% cosmetic issue only and usually come from the manufacturer using too thick of gelcoat. he went on to say that the problem is that the other 5% are blisters that are from water saturation and the risks of delamination of the fiberglass usually from freezing. fixing the blisters is very expensive. i was looking at a boat that was in premium condition but had these blisters all over the place. he said you could buy it and run it as is with no ill effects but posed the question "can you sell it later with them?" obviously it decreases the value substantially because of the unknown.

as for the motor, sitting is bad. it doesnt hurt the motor portion much if prepared properly but alot of your rubber parts like fuel lines, carb gaskets etc are probably in need of replacement. if you dont mind a fair amount of maintenance to get her back on the road then the low hours on the powerhead will be nice. those are great motors, i have a 1990 yamaha 150 on my 1990 overnighter and love it. run it and find out, if it runs good and you aren't afraid to replace accessory parts if need be then go for it if the price is right.

 

[seasick]

That hull is pre SV2 design. There is a significant difference between earlier and later hulls in ride and handling. Blisters may be serious or less serious. It's tough to tell . If the boat has been dry for quite some time, a moisture scan of the hull may not tell you the whole story.
If yoy are not able to do a sea trial or at a minimum start/run the motor assume it doesn't work and price accordingly. If the boat was stored with fuel in it you can be certain that the tank is a mess and that at a minimum carbs will need rebuilding
The fuel tank may be aluminum on that vesel and could be past its useful life.
The same goes for all pumps , hoses etc.
Bottom line, I would not recommend that a new owner buy a boat without a sea trial and a survey. Remember, you get what you pay for but you can pay more than your should and can easily end up with a money pit.

 

[fistful]

Thanks for your replies and insight. I will certainly run the engine and conduct a seatrial. From a pricing standpoint it has been difficult to even find Overnighters in that era for sale to compare price to. NADA suggests it is worth about 5K with that motor and trailer. Just making sure I cover all my bases.

BTW...this maybe a worn out question here, but what are the big differences between a pre-SV2 hull and a SV2?

Thanks Again.

Tom

 

[seasick]

Thanks for your replies and insight. I will certainly run the engine and conduct a sea trial. From a pricing standpoint it has been difficult to even find Overnighters in that era for sale to compare price to. NADA suggests it is worth about 5K with that motor and trailer. Just making sure I cover all my bases.

BTW...this maybe a worn out question here, but what are the big differences between a pre-SV2 hull and a SV2?

Thanks Again.

Tom

The SV2 hull design uses a variable dead-rise angle that is narrower at the bow and increases towards the stern. The narrower angle at the bow 'attacks' the waves and improved handling while the smaller angle at the stern improves stability. This is a simple explanation of a complex topic but if you were to ride a pre SV2 hull and a SV2 hull of the same general size boat, you would probably appreciate the new design. The older hull design lent itself to what we call a wet ride, water spraying over the deck. The SV2 hulls tend to be a lot 'drier'.

Good luck. Note that Grady's tend to depreciate slowly after the first 5-10 years so finding similar models near that year would help in the pricing.
By the way, it is hard to tell the condition of a trailer especially if run in salt water. Galvanized trailers corrode from the inside out thus making it tough to see issues. I doubt the trailer is as old as the hull but if it is, it probably has little value. Don't forget that replacing canvas, windows , covers etc can be expensive so price those item in also. A survey should include a moisture test of the hull, deck and lockers as well as the usual inspection items.

 

[High C's]

I have a 1990 Gulfstream. It is pre sv2 hull and it is a rocking chair in rough water. The gulfstream is a beamier boat and that makes a difference also, bit it is very dry and comfortable. Just trying to add to your info base .. Congrats on your first Grady !

 

[CWOT]

If you are paying less than $5000. I think you are OK.
It isn't a bad price just for the hull if the blister thing is just cosmetic.
Be prepared to spend money on upgrades. The motor and lines could be an issue.
Years ago I had a 1983 boat covered with blisters, we guessed a poor glass job.
we sanded them off, put on some bottom paint and never had another blister.
If the blisters are deep than I would pass, I wouldn't do surgical hull work on a boat 20 years old.
just my opinion, good luck