Making the switch from Reg Gas to E10

[Salinity Now]

Thought I would run this by some of the experts here (who I know have dealt similar situation) I recently bought new VST filters from Andy @ SIM but Im wondering if I should install now or wait till Ive ran E10 fuel through both tanks exclusively? Now that Ive switched over to E10, I dont plan on mixing any regular gas into it, as I do trailer the boat and my marina has same price gas on water as at the station, but it is E10.

(quick history)
- Boat is new to me, 2001 Grady 265 with twin OX-250s, used regular gas exclusively its whole life. Maintenance has been eh....sketchy at best I would think.
- Ran E10 fuel through it for the first time in April for a short amount of time, boat then sat up for 30days with new fuel in old tank.
- Cranked it up 2weeks ago, both motors cranked fine, then starboard choked up, would only run at high RPMs (both pulling from same tank)
- poured out spin on filter, was clean till the bottom and showed brown fuel at the end
- Buddy at the Marina and hooked me up with some new filters, fought it for a while to crank, but got it to run, stay at high RPM at first and then ran great (changed both motor filters BTW, even though port motor never had a hic-up, but did have dirty fuel in filter)
- Ran the boat for about 3 hours next day and did great with new filters (spin on)
I need to add fuel in the aux tank now (its empty) and Im predicting the same issue, plan is to add about 50 gals (120gal tank) let it slosh around and settle out for a few days, then switch over to that tank, run the motors and hopefully catch the crap in the spin ons and change them, and forget about it.

So, my question (sorry so long).....should I wait to run the motors off the aux tank with E10 gas after its sloshed around a while and wait till Ive technically run the motors via both tanks and hope the varnish is out before changing the VST's?

Leave the VST alone and wait for it (motors to act up again)?

Change now before I use it any further at all (regardless of aux tank or main?)

Any and all input is appreciated, motors really ran well after we changed the spin ons, used alot of StarTron too.

 

[seasick]

mixing E10 and regular gas is not an issue. (old gas with MTBE is an issue but that has not been available for quite some time)
If your fuel tanks are poly, you are less at risk than if they are aluminum.
Since you already ran the motors with the old and new, you should just keep an eye on them for issues but you may not have any. Clogges VST sysmptoms show up first at higher speeds, not at idle.
Evert time you add new fule, the old will get diluted and the overall condition will improve.
If you don't know if the low pressure pumps were changed, you should change them all. Symptoms of failing LP pumps include, stall at idle speed when cold, loss of top end, rought running, etc

 

[Bill_N]

I think you'll go through the same thing when you fill the aux. tank. I think Tim went through this with his 265 and was dumping his filters all the time. Depending on how much you run the boat it may take a while to get the crap out of your fuel system. Regardless, I'd carry a spare set of filters on the boat at all times until you get past this.

Good Luck!

 

[uncljohn]

mixing E10 and regular gas is not an issue. (old gas with MTBE is an issue but that has not been available for quite some time)

Seasick-

how are you differentiating "regular gas" and "old gas with MTBE"? I thought pre-E10, all regular gas had MTBE as an additive. MTBE was replaced with ethanol. So I thought "Old regular gas with MTBE" was the same thing.

The issue is mixing MTBE with ethanol. At most, in your tank you should have 25% MTBE and 75% E10 fuels mixed. If you have a greater % of old MTBE gas, then it goes thru phase separation. So, once you go to E10, you should stick with it.

 

[Curmudgeon]

Fuel with MTBE hasn't been available for years. If any remains in his tank, it's really, really old. Since MTBE was the problem with mixing, that's no longer an issue (that I've heard of). Also, never heard of non-ethanol fuel going through phase separation ... :wink:

 

[BobP]

The alcohol is scrubbing the ship's tank clean, change the canister filters twice per tank, get a bunch of cheap siera 10 micron (standard) ones. If you add a fuel vacuum gauge on the filter (motor side), it will show when filter has loaded up. After the first tank load, go to to one per tank or use the gauge to determine.

Make sure there is plenty of fuel to motor and it is not restricting -it may cause it to run too lean, not good. An occasional hole shot from a standstill with dropped levers is a good test. Thats when the flowscans peg out the gauge needles.

 

[Bob's Cay]

Rather than risk running it through the engine why not get a "Fuel Polishing" service to filter it if you think it needs it. When i bought my boat 16 years ago it had been in storage for 3 years and had about 30 gallons of bad gas. I emptied it by buying a universal 12V automotive fuel pump at an Auto Parts and pumping the gas into 5 gallon cans. i disconnected the fuel ine at the engine and added the pump and a section of hose. Often wondered if I could have stuck the hose back into the fuel fill and recirculate the fuel through the cannister filter. Just replace the filter when it was done.

 

[richie rich]

The alcohol is scrubbing the ship's tank clean, change the canister filters twice per tank, get a bunch of cheap siera 10 micron (standard) ones.

Bingo.....the old non-e10 fuel left a residue inside the tank walls....the new E-10 acts as a solvent to scrub it clean.....you will continually get orange deposits in your fuel system until its all out of your tank, which will take several fill ups and some time for the alcohol to do its thing......as Bob suggested, lots and lots of filters until it goes away, then do the VST.

 

[Salinity Now]

Thanks for the feed back guys, Im tempted to use the StarTron tank cleaning additive to both tanks, and continue the filter change process, I can get those 10micron filters at my local marina shop for $6 ea, so I would think 2 more sets would be plenty, assuming I can run enough fuel through them. I called USA Fuel Services in Norfolk, he said he likes both tanks filles to atleast 3/4 full and the service runs about $300, that may be a better one time deal to just get it done and over with, seems like Im just constantly dumping money into this thing!!

I want it right before I run 75miles offshore, so each trip to me is like a mini seatrial to build up confidence on the boat and all its components.

Im fairly certain Im gonna hold off on any VST filter changes till Im sure the fuel tanks are cleaned and Im running nothing but clean E10 fuel through the system.

 

[uncljohn]

Fuel with MTBE hasn't been available for years. If any remains in his tank, it's really, really old. Since MTBE was the problem with mixing, that's no longer an issue (that I've heard of). Also, never heard of non-ethanol fuel going through phase separation ... :wink:

During the E10 changeover a few years back, I read numerous places to never mix more than 25% non-ethanol fuel with E10. So when filling w/ E10 the first time, make sure your tank is 1/4 full or less. I thought I read that was due to the E10 gas separating the MTBE from the old gas. Maybe it was some additive other than MTBE? I'm not an expert, but am thankful to have gotten several issue-free years of E10 thru my OX66.

 

[Curmudgeon]

Im tempted to use the StarTron tank cleaning additive to both tanks,
If E-10 won't clean the tank, rest assured Startron will probably not, either. 'Fuel polishing will handle water and junk in the fuel, but will not restore octane to old fuel or clean the tank. Good luck with it, sure can be aggravating ... :wink:

 

[drbatts]

the solution to pollution is dilution. I would use starton, change filters like advised above, and keep putting fresh premium fuel in. Try and dilute the old stuff out.