Metal Transom bracket corroding what to do????

3

330expressOC

New Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2024
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
33
Model
Offshore
Hello everyone,
I have a 2005 Grady White 330 Express- I just noticed the metal transom bracket is starting to corrode. I fish offshore and was wondering if this will be ok for the rest of this year or if I should pull the boat and get it taken care of immediately. Also, when the boat is pulled how do you fix this? thanks so much,grady.jpg
 
If you just checked it recently and it wasn't corroded but is now, you have a problem that needs to be looked at.
If you haven't been checking each year until now, it may not be as critical (assuming the corrosion has been a slow process
You probably can wait till end of season since one of two conditions is present: The transom coring is wet or rotten. That can be a big deal and an expensive one too. Possibility 2 is that the cap just corroded over time but the transom is not damaged. In that case you would need to replace and seal the cap and corner trim. That is still a bit job for a DIYer without the knowledge or equipment to derig, unbolt, lift and store your motors while the work on the cap is done.
 
330... first, welcome aboard :)

2nd... that's actually not "starting" to corrode - that has been corroding for some time. It's actually quite extensive as there is are lots of gaps that expose the core.

Hopefully, though, at this point the core is not compromised - but it will need to be checked.

The replacement (with a new style vinyl bang cap) is a relatively easy process (if no core issues, anyways)... remove (just suspend - don't need to disconnect any wires/cables) engines, remove Al bang cap, seal up the core really well, put new bang cap on, reattach engines.

For now, run some sealant over the gaps and then tape over everything with something like shrink wrap tape.
 
They all do that even if kept in a high and dry. I replaced mine with the vinyl cap 5 years ago when I re-powered. It was not too hard a job except for cleaning out what looked like 5200 used to seal the aluminum cap.

My corrosion problem was related to the fact that the engine mount is in contact with the cap causing it to flex upon acceleration. The mount also seems to be an alloy different from the cap resulting in galvanic corrosion. The more flexible vinyl cap gets around these issues.

If my transom turned out to be wet (which it did not), I would have replaced it and had the top glassed over as it should have been in the first place.
 
  • Like
Reactions: loubeer
I was thinking about making a “C” channel out of stainless replacing the original I think it would look mich nicer a function better
 
Replace with a well-sealed vinyl cap - it's due. Also, suggest taking a look at the 4 brass transom well tubes. If never addressed, they probably also need replacing. I used fiberglass tubing instead of the brass - I will never have to worry about brass corrosion.
 
49pan said:
I was thinking about making a “C” channel out of stainless replacing the original I think it would look much nicer a function better
Click to expand...
Stainless may look good but it can suffer galvanic corrosion where it contacts the motor mounting bracket.
 
I used a stainless steel transom bracket and used a piece of starboard to separate the motor mount from the bracket. Appears to be working well. Could not find polished stainless so settled for a fairly heavy duty ss angle. Like to believe it helps supports any transom flex.
 
trapper said:
I used a stainless steel transom bracket and used a piece of starboard to separate the motor mount from the bracket. Appears to be working well. Could not find polished stainless so settled for a fairly heavy duty ss angle. Like to believe it helps supports any transom flex.
Click to expand...
We did the same to our old Islander, we were happy with the results. We bed the new angle iron in a lot of seacalk and it should be good for another 20 years.

1719162487609.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.