Need help with my Evinrude 150 FICHT RAM

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pquinter

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Greetings
I have a pair of Evinrude 150 FICHT on my 2001 (engines are 2001) GW 247 Advance. Today i got a check engine alarm after using the boat for about 30 minutes (no problems), when i docked and shifted to neutral the alarm came on. I switched the boat off for ~30 seconds, started it again and the alarm came again, this time the engine shut off itself. I checked it and found ,what I believe is the diagnostic cable, (3 cables going into the plug and on coming out of it) unplugged. I re-plugged it, turned the engine on and let it idling (in neutral) at the dock for ~10 minutes. I got no alarms after that. Could the alarm be that cable being disconnected? Will any of these check engine alarms turned the boat off?
Please let me know,
Cheers
Pedro
 
Could have been the loose connection, but usually the check engine alarm indicates a fuel restriction to the pump. and that would cause it to stall if there is a restriction. Check your tank valves area all fully open nothing pinching your supply lines and make sure your tank vent lines are all clear.
 
There`s ALOT of things that could throw a CEL. You need to get the code stored and see what it was for. There are hard codes and soft codes. A hard code will put the motor in limp mode and give you 1500rpm max, soft codes, the lite will come on,then go out with no effect on the motor running, but will store the code. If you want to work on this yourself, get a omc shop manual. It will tell you how to get the codes out and what they mean and how to clear them.
 
To check the codes hold open the throttle position sensor
in the WOT position.
(I have used a rubber band if a friend isn't available)
Turn the key but don't turn over the motor, the warning beep will sound and then the dash light (engine code light) will begin to flash, count the flashes
or "groups" of flashes, kinda like morse code.

code 12- TPS malfunction
13- TPS below expected range
14 - TPS above expected range
15 - ROM failure
16 - Crankshaft Position Sensor out of adjustment or damage
17 - Alternator Voltage low
18 - Alternator Voltage high
23 - ECU Temp malfunction
24 - ECU Temp Low
25 - ECU Temp High
26 - Battery Voltage Low
27 - Battery Volyage High
28 - Shift Assist Circuit Malfunction

CODE 37*** - Water in Fuel Sensor Activation
41 - Water Temp Circuit malfunction
42 - Water Temp below expected range
44 - Barometric pressure Sensor circuit malfunction
45 - BP sensor below expected range
46 - BP sensor above range
47 - Air Temp Circuit malfunction
48- Air temp below expected range
49 - Air Temp above range

To manually clear the service codes and erase "soft codes".

While in diagnostic mode, return the throttle position sensor to its idle position, wait 5 seconds and the check engine light will come on.
Move the TPS to its WOT limit, check engine light will go out.
Then back to low end limit, light will come back on.
Make sure TPS travels to both limits, repeat the low to high steps for 5 cycles, after cycle 5 on the low end limit, the check light will stay on until the TPS is remounted. After remount, if there are no hard codes, the light will stay off.
Turn off the key off and all soft codes will be erased.
Probably not a bad idea to disconnect the motor from the negative battery terminal at this time, wait 10 minutes and reconnect.
Engine must be run to re-aquire any soft codes.

Code 37 is quite common
Good Luck
gt
 
According to the manual a loose wiring connection cauld cause the check engine light to come on, The engine would have to run for 15 error free hours before it clears the code or you can manually clear it.


f you need an electronic copy of the seloc manual for that year engine send me a PM with your e-mail address, I have the 1998-2001 book. I will send you a copy , it tells you how to get the codes.
 
Thank you all, I will work on it tomorrow and will let you guys know. I had a Shamrock with a 250 IB Cummins diesel engine, now I have this GW 247 with a pair of 150....I am new to outboards with all these electronic systems.
Cheers
Pedro
 
Hope we have helped Pedro, this is an excellent forum to learn about your Grady.

Try to find the OMC manual that covers your Fichts, the SELOCS and others are not going to be much help.
I was kind of afraid of working with mine until I bought the proper manual thru my Evinrude dealer.
It was about $45, a great investment.

As far as "electrical" stuff, I've found that most electrical problems
can be traced to poor ground connections first, followed by other loose/bad/corroded connections.

Good Luck
gt
 
Thank you all for your help!!!
It was the shift assist switch, it is now working fine.
Cheers
Pedro
 
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