When I tilt one of my motors up it floods out. I am thinking the diaphragms might be shot. She starts up after sitting for about fifteen minutes. Had a lot of issues off this craigslist specials. Hopefully this will be it. You get what you pay for and learn a lot on the way. It also seems to be turning over alot slower than port motor. Both batteries are good. Any suggestions on a place to start???
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ox66 flooding out
- Thread starter GreatWhite23
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DennisG01
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Maybe I'm just not up on the lingo, but what do you mean by flooding out? How is the fuel getting past the injectors without the engine running?
Batteries - how did you verify that both are good? First, clean and retighten battery connections and check again. Next, swap the batteries and see if the problem follows. If not, then look closer at the cables/connections - both at the battery and the engine. Also take the battery switch out and check those connections.
Batteries - how did you verify that both are good? First, clean and retighten battery connections and check again. Next, swap the batteries and see if the problem follows. If not, then look closer at the cables/connections - both at the battery and the engine. Also take the battery switch out and check those connections.
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When the motor is tilted up then put back down it turns over slower and will not start. After sitting for fifteen minutes or so it turns over faster and runs fine. Still does not turn over as fast as it should. I would guess there is to much fuel in cylinders?? With injection it does not make any sense. Both batteries are less then 6 months old and have a full charge. What is the battery switch? The terminals are clean. The issue seems to be when the motor is tilted. Does not sound electrical but I am open to any help.
DennisG01
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I would think that the only way that injectors could leak fuel is if there is something wrong with them, but then you'd likely notice other problems. But I'm kinda on the fringe of my knowledge there.
If your batteries aren't tied together in any way, then you won't have a battery selector switch. Obviously I'm not there to help, but from what you describe it sounds electrical to me. Sounds like one battery is not so good (maybe a bad cell) - when you use the trim (draws a lot of power), it starts to drain the battery. When you let it set for a bit, it recovers enough to crank faster. Just because they're new doesn't mean their good. Unless you load test them properly or remove the cables and let it sit for 24 hours before checking with a meter, other ways aren't very accurate. AND, if you do have a battery switch and it's set to "both", you're getting an average V reading of the two batteries.
Corrosion can also work it's way up underneath the jacket. How old are the cables?
Switch batteries and see if the problem follows the battery or the engine. This is just basic diagnostics 101 to eliminate variables... starting with the easy things first.
If your batteries aren't tied together in any way, then you won't have a battery selector switch. Obviously I'm not there to help, but from what you describe it sounds electrical to me. Sounds like one battery is not so good (maybe a bad cell) - when you use the trim (draws a lot of power), it starts to drain the battery. When you let it set for a bit, it recovers enough to crank faster. Just because they're new doesn't mean their good. Unless you load test them properly or remove the cables and let it sit for 24 hours before checking with a meter, other ways aren't very accurate. AND, if you do have a battery switch and it's set to "both", you're getting an average V reading of the two batteries.
Corrosion can also work it's way up underneath the jacket. How old are the cables?
Switch batteries and see if the problem follows the battery or the engine. This is just basic diagnostics 101 to eliminate variables... starting with the easy things first.
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K sounds good It has two battery switches both are on both. Will work on it fri. Thanks for advice does sound electrical/battery issue
DennisG01
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Friday... sounds good.
OK, since you had the switches set like that... and since you have two switches (assuming they're wired the way I would expect) you don't have to physically switch batteries since you can just try starting the engine with the other battery by using the switches.
If the problem follows the battery, don't condemn the battery right away. There could be a problem with the charging system on the engine (or the wiring in between) and buying a new battery won't solve the problem.
-- With the battery switches NOT on both (I would even disconnect the negative lead that goes between them) start up the engines and check for voltage - you should be getting somewhere in the high 13's to low 14's at around 2000RPM's (give or take, depending on what the exact spec is for the engine - but it's close enough). If you get that, you know that everything is good from the engine to the battery.
If that checks out fine (proper V coming from the engines) then remove the battery and charge it at home, then have it load tested to be sure. This is just to make sure that it is in fact a bad battery and not the wiring. The wiring might be good enough to pass through charging voltage, but not good enough to pass through enough amps to start the engine properly.
OK, since you had the switches set like that... and since you have two switches (assuming they're wired the way I would expect) you don't have to physically switch batteries since you can just try starting the engine with the other battery by using the switches.
If the problem follows the battery, don't condemn the battery right away. There could be a problem with the charging system on the engine (or the wiring in between) and buying a new battery won't solve the problem.
-- With the battery switches NOT on both (I would even disconnect the negative lead that goes between them) start up the engines and check for voltage - you should be getting somewhere in the high 13's to low 14's at around 2000RPM's (give or take, depending on what the exact spec is for the engine - but it's close enough). If you get that, you know that everything is good from the engine to the battery.
If that checks out fine (proper V coming from the engines) then remove the battery and charge it at home, then have it load tested to be sure. This is just to make sure that it is in fact a bad battery and not the wiring. The wiring might be good enough to pass through charging voltage, but not good enough to pass through enough amps to start the engine properly.