What's a good set-up to keep the anchor mounted in the pulpit without using a windlass? I'm rebuilding the pulpit now so any mods will be easy to make before it's finished.
Pulpit and anchor set-up
- Thread starter Grog
- Start date
If you're looking to deploy the anchor from the cockpit by hand, two good ideas are 1) one of those pivot anchor pieces so that when you release the tension the anchor just tips down and starts to freefall and 2) one or two loop style guides down your gunwale to keep the line from chafing and so that there aren't any sharp bends that could prevent the line from hanging up. i dont have any pics of this setup but i'll try to add some hyperlinks later.
Use these where it goes through the deck?
http://www.boatersworld.com/product...5;cidocking;cicleats-hardware;cicleats-chocks
or
http://www.boatersworld.com/product...5;cidocking;cicleats-hardware;cicleats-chocks
I'm paranoid and might pin the anchor in addition to the tensioner but now what keeps the chain from beating up the pulpit?
http://www.boatersworld.com/product...5;cidocking;cicleats-hardware;cicleats-chocks
or
http://www.boatersworld.com/product...5;cidocking;cicleats-hardware;cicleats-chocks
I'm paranoid and might pin the anchor in addition to the tensioner but now what keeps the chain from beating up the pulpit?
Grog said:
You can use this, in addition to the tensioner, or by itself;
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... %3Bcichain
Those hawse pipes would allow water to easily come through. This might be better;
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/327 ... ats-chocks
As far as the anchor beating up the deck, the only solution I can think of, is vinyl coverd chain.
I'll measure the chain to see if it fits through the 1" hole. How big of a PIA will it be to get the rope through the deck pipe? I can get a stainless steel sheet to go from the anchor roller to the deck pipe so that will cut down on the abuse the puplit will take and the vinyl coated chain will be quieter when it rattles.
It almost looks easier to go with the windlass.
It almost looks easier to go with the windlass.
Grog said:
Don't you have an anchor storage compartment? If you do, I just realized, you shouldn't need a hawse pipe.
If you must have on, they should have larger ones, that will accept chain.
Grog, place the anchor in the guide in the pulpit. Is it a fluke style anchor? If so, it wedges nicely in the runner up there - that's what it's meant for.
Make up a 4 ft. length of 3/8" three strand nylon with a spliced heavy S hook at one end, get a heavy duty SS hook that fits into a link, I got one at West. I think in the sailing section.
Place the S hook into one of the chain links, and tie off the other end under tension to the cleat in the middle there.
You can sleeve or PVC coat the few links on the pass into the compartment to protect the opening.
I use the same setup even thought I have a windlass, to secure the anchor just in case the windlass lets go, don't want the anchor falling from the boat at high speed!
This is the KISS plan, if you are interested, and $$ cost effective (vs. those other tensioners mentioned).
Have fun.
Make up a 4 ft. length of 3/8" three strand nylon with a spliced heavy S hook at one end, get a heavy duty SS hook that fits into a link, I got one at West. I think in the sailing section.
Place the S hook into one of the chain links, and tie off the other end under tension to the cleat in the middle there.
You can sleeve or PVC coat the few links on the pass into the compartment to protect the opening.
I use the same setup even thought I have a windlass, to secure the anchor just in case the windlass lets go, don't want the anchor falling from the boat at high speed!
This is the KISS plan, if you are interested, and $$ cost effective (vs. those other tensioners mentioned).
Have fun.
Grog, if the chain doesn't fit through the existing opening, I have a plan for that too, let me know.
By the way, it's not exactly an S hook, the open end is longer and more open than the other, and the ends are finished with a nice roundover.
How about if you split the chain?
Use a short piece from the anchor to the tension device, (to hold the anchor in the pulpit). The balance of the chain could stay on the rope, with another shackle on the end.
Link for regular shackle;
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... -hooks-etc
That way you could keep it all stowed in the compartment, and just attach the shakle, (chain to chain) when your ready to drop anchor.
Or.... how about enlarging the hole in the compartment hatch, and dress the area with the stainless sheet metal you mentioned?
Use a short piece from the anchor to the tension device, (to hold the anchor in the pulpit). The balance of the chain could stay on the rope, with another shackle on the end.
Link for regular shackle;
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... -hooks-etc
That way you could keep it all stowed in the compartment, and just attach the shakle, (chain to chain) when your ready to drop anchor.
Or.... how about enlarging the hole in the compartment hatch, and dress the area with the stainless sheet metal you mentioned?
Hopefully Brian's picture isn't copywrighted;
Different daughter and Different boat but same bow. Running a chaing through the passage in the compartment door will mess it up. Getting the anchor back in can be a pain sometimes if I don't watch how the rope and chain go back in.
Different daughter and Different boat but same bow. Running a chaing through the passage in the compartment door will mess it up. Getting the anchor back in can be a pain sometimes if I don't watch how the rope and chain go back in.
J-cubed
Well-Known Member
I use sailboat furling leads on my rail stanchions to guide the anchor line back to the cockpit and an Anchor Chain Stopper to hold the anchor in place.
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... %3Bcichain
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=107663
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... %3Bcichain
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=107663
