Re-adhering Helm and Deck Trim

[wahoo33417]

The trim that covers most of all of my boat's helm and deck joints is pulling away from the fiberglass, especially in turns. Perhaps it either loses flexibility or simply shrinks as it ages?

In all places that I have tried, I can press it back into place. So it seems like there is enough trim material to 'cover' the curves, i.e., not extensive shrinkage. But there is no glue to hold it in place.

So I'm wondering if a heat gun and glue might have success in getting this trim back in place as opposed to replacing all of it?

I have no experience with a heat gun. And, for those that do, what type of glue might hold well and quickly?

I'm imagining that, even if a heat gun makes it easier to press the trim back into place along the curves, my hands are not gonna hold it in place for very long. So the glue needs to adhere fairly quickly.

Appreciate the thoughts of others who may have tried this already or who have worked with this trim material a time or two.

Tx, Rob

 

[Hookup1]

That trim is glued but also set with plastic rivets. Short term fix would be to replace the rivets with screws with stainless screws and finish washers. You could use Gorilla Glue along with the screws but keep it away from the edges. For now it works for me.

Mine is a 1997 Islander and it has shrunk like yours around curves. I have not looked for a replacement.

As of the heat gun I don't see a use for it other than to maybe remove old glue residue.

 

[DennisG01]

Done this many times on different boats. 3M4200 squeezed gently (not too much so you avoid excessive squeeze out) into the rubber channel... and then tape the rubber in place. You can use 3M5200, as well - but it's absolute bear to get it of should you need to replace the rubber at some point.

 

[seasick]

The trim was probably installed with two sided tape, There is a 3M molding tape made for trim. It is really sticky. That said, the corners you mentioned are caused by shrinkage and the tension will pull the tape away from the fiberglass over time. I have reattached trim but also relieved some tension by taking the trim off and repositioning it. to reduce the tugging. The down side to that is that the trim ends up shorter than it was, That can be hidden in some applications but not all. The other problem is that the old tape needs to be removed from the back of the trim as well as the fiberglass surface and made clean for the molding tape to work. Removing long lengths of the old molding tape is a horrendous job. I used to think that the price they ask for new trim was a rip off ( 7 to $10 a foot) but after doing the job by reusing the old trim a few times, the cost is worth it.

Amazon.com : 3m moulding tape

 

[SouthFork]

I used 4200 and clothes pins to hold it until cured. No problems since. I heated the trim with a heat gun to get the bend right.

 

[seasick]

I used 4200 and clothes pins to hold it until cured. No problems since. I heated the trim with a heat gun to get the bend right.

I also used a heat gun, It helped but over a relatively short time, the trim started to pull away again. I used the small woodworker clamps too but some area didn't lend themselves to 'clamping' easily. I did avoid adhesives like 4200 in favor of new molding tape but did use some adhesive on the ends that butted up against the deck or bulkheads.