Replacing Freshwater Pump on Adventure

[Jonah]

Hi all,

My freshwater pump seems to have died. I looked up the part number, and this is the one: <http://www.pumpagents.com/pdf/ShurfloPumps/8050-204-033.pdf>.

Any reason I should not order a new one from the same company? Are there any well-known aftermarket companies that I should consider instead? I remember when buying a new water separator filter, I learned that many GW owners buy Sierra parts instead?

Thanks!

 

[Lt.Mike]

Any chance there is still a little water in the pump and it is now frozen?

 

[Jonah]

Hi Lt.Mike,

It was so warm today that I actually didn't consider that. Given that the boat is in the shade and the pump is beneath the seat, that's certainly possible. Hopefully I didn't kill it myself. I'll wait until warmer weather to tinker with it some more. But if I do have to replace it, I'm eager to hear from any others as to whether there are any good alternative models, or whether I should just go for the same thing again.

Thanks!

 

[freddy063]

Before you get a new pump, put the old one out an power it on a good battery, I saw some of your other post and pictures and blade fuses get dirt and fail , it bite me before and i learned from it. And all wire connection need to be clean. Maybe try cleaning all the connection, and what I do now is after cleaning with a wire brush i spray a oil base coating, NAPA have it, most everywhere, even a fogging oil will work, covers the connection .

some older wires sometime wicks up a inch or better causing troubles , you think you have a good connection but really only have a non load carrying voltage.cut back the wires and strip off the plastic coating if there black stuff in the wire , that could be your trouble, saltwater and copper wire do not mix well.

talk to your local boat yard and find out what they coat there wiring with, that should be the same stuff you coat your motor before winter storage.

 

[Lt.Mike]

It was so warm today that I actually didn't consider that. Given that the boat is in the shade and the pump is beneath the seat, that's certainly possible.

I went on about the beautiful warm (45 degree :wink: ) weather yeaterday and was out in my barn working on the dash project for my Overnighter but when the sun went down the temps took a nose dive. I was shivering before long and had to call it a night. Our night time temps could easily freeze any water left in the pump, and that ain't good.
As Freddy suggested pull the pump out to test it but bring it in the house first to thaw for an hour or two. If your lucky its good and just a corroded connection.
I hate to say it but if there is water frozen in the pump cross your fingers that it didn't expand and crack the pump. Washdown pumps need to be winterized.
Good luck with it.
Mike.
*My year round corrosion spray, for summer use and winter storage is a liberal dosing pf outboard powerheads and metal parts with WD40. Been using it for years on my boats electrical connections and engines. My little '96 Mariner 25 is still reliable and I sold an '88 Force 125 still running well after 21 years of my use.

 

[seasick]

Hi all,

My freshwater pump seems to have died. I looked up the part number, and this is the one: <http://www.pumpagents.com/pdf/ShurfloPumps/8050-204-033.pdf>.

Any reason I should not order a new one from the same company? Are there any well-known aftermarket companies that I should consider instead? I remember when buying a new water separator filter, I learned that many GW owners buy Sierra parts instead?

Thanks!

Corroded connectors are common on the 208 but at the same time, the pumps only last so long. I don't remember the GPH for the fresh water pump. The old pump should have the rating on its label. Note that that pump is an intermittent duty model as opposed to a livewell pump which will generally be a continuous duty cycle type.
Depending on your hull year the original pump may not be available but that isn't really an issue. Make sure you get the correct capacity and fittings. It is likely also that the mounting holes are spaced differently. No big deal, drill pilot holes and make sure that the old unused holes are caulked and that the new screws are also coated with sealant like 4200.
If you have to use new connectors, buy the ones that are silicon sealed. As mentioned, the connections often get corroded.
As for winterizing, the Rule and Sureflow equivalents are basically self draining IF you undo the connections for storage. I run the water tank 'dry' add RV antifreeze, use the sprayer until I see pink and then undo the feed from the tank. Use the pump again to empty it, remove the output side connection, pull the sprayer hose all the way out, hold it up with the button pressed to drain the residual water in the hose and that's it for the winter.
Winterizing the wash-down can be a little trickier depending on the hose placement.
In general the live well will also self drain, just make sure the seacock is open ( saltwater washdown too)

 

[Jonah]

Thanks everyone, and thanks Seasick for the info on winterizing.

I went back out and found that the only reason it had stopped working (again) was that the connection had failed (again). I'll soon start a new thread on how to clean and protect the switch connections. But once I got it going again, I let it run until it was 'dry' (sputtering little bits of water), and now I just need to go figure out how to follow Seasick's advice on unplugging the hose from the tank for the winter.

Thanks again!