replacing front windows - glass or polycarb? project update

[busterblue]

The 2 front windows on my 89 252G are scratched and crazed with stress cracks that will not buff out. The seals are also leaking. How do I go about removing the "glass" and replacing it?

There is alot of silicone around the outer frame outside and around the widow pane itself on the inside. Does any one sell the whole assembly (for less than a new boat?)

Suggestions? experiences?

Thanks 1st Grady (this is my 1st GW as well)

OK, The windows in the frames are out! Thanks
NOW, WHat do you folks think about replacing the window with saftey glass instead of polycarb? to avoid the easy scratching of the poly?

 

[1st grady]

Last spring I removed the frame assembly from the cabin, remove the black rubber strips on the outside of the frame, then remove all the screws, (1995 268)removed the glass by using a razor knife or wire windshield remover, took it to a glass shop and they re-bedded the glass into the frame with silicone sealant. I did remove the glass from the frame and cleaned it up using acetone on the frame and glass. It appeared to be a bit tricky reinstalling the glass because the frame has a slight bend to it to conform to the deck but the glass is flat. You need to lay a thicker bead of sealant on the one side to build it up the the glass that is further from the frame. For the$10 per window they charge me, it was nice to have it done well. I resealed the frames to the deck with liberal amounts of almond silicone sealant. I let it dry after the squeeze out then carefully cut off the excess with a razor knife. It is a bit tricky getting the screws sealed into the frames, use lots of sealant as it will be covered by the rubber cover strips. (i don't think they are designed to seal anything, just cover the screws holding the frame in place. It will take two people to remove and reinstall the frames, 1 inside the cabin and one outside installing the screws. I don't see any reason you couldn't have new glass installed (darker tint?). They might just charge a bit more to cut to the parallelogram shape. Also, be sure to clean up all that silicone that is smeared around the frames. I just rubbed it with acetone and then gently, carefully scrape with a razor scraper. I probably spent about 3 hours per window, but they look great now and DON"T leak.

 

[busterblue]

Thanks 1st, couple questions

When you say "remove the black rubber strips on the outside of the frame, then remove all the screws" do you mean the black rubber strips on the inside of the frame on the outside of the boat?

Did you replace the rubber? Mine is and '89 and the rubber seems pretty hard (of course its pretty (&)^kin cold here now.) Do you know of a supplier for the rubber?

Thanks again, BB

 

[1st grady]

The outer black rubber strips are renoved first to reveal the installation screws that should be set into some sealant. Start in one corner with a thin screw driver or pick and carefully peel it out from the track. Remove all the screws then gently cut between the frame and the deck with a long thin blade to loosen the aluminum frames from the deck. After removing the screws, the inside trim will fall away because it is being held by the outside screws. Think of it as a sandwich. Exterior frame, fiberglass deck then the inside trim. The fiberglass is sandwiched between the inner and outer frames/trim. Some screws pass through the fiberglass and some do not, it depends on who was cutting the opening for the windows that day at the plant. (newguy :? , or a P Offed :x seasoned employee I guess). Sorry about the small, poor pic but you can see the outer as compared to the inner black strips around the window.

 

[busterblue]

update and question

should I use glass or polycarb to replace the window?

 

[1st grady]

I would replace it with glass. I am pretty sure my windows were glass, not plastic. Poly scratches pretty easy. I think glass will last longer as well. Mine survived the first 15 years.

 

[busterblue]

That's the answer I wanted

Mine appear to be poly. They are scratched and have stress cracks. I'm a clean glass freak so I want to go with glass. I'm going to try and find lightly tinted safety glass of the same thickness as the current material so it fits properly.

 

[fishingFINattic]

If you purchase a "mar10" rated Lexan (polycarb) it is scratch resistant.
The one STRONG concern that have with not using glass is material compatability.
Some of the polycarb's will become glazed if hit with aggressive cleaners - the type you may use to clean the deck and bow.
Tim

 

[busterblue]

Good point. I was really just thinking about the feet dangling when folks are sitting on the cabin top in front of the windshield.

But, I'll admit, as bloody as I enjoy getting the boat, I'm a "finaddict" about scrubbing it all clean (not just the glass) at days end; so, glass it will have to be.

 

[busterblue]

update

SO I brought it to the local glas shop and for the extra $90 ( I wish it was only $10) I decided it was worth the expertise of having the job done professionally so it wouldn't leak. Well, I went to pick them up today and they looked like crap. There were gaps at every corner as if the black spline (?) that rims the window pane had shrunk on every (all 4, top, bottom and sides) length; and, they had not even cleaned up the frames before or after doing the work. I refused to accept the job and told them to take them apart clean the frames so there would not be any crap in the seal , reassemble and clean up the frames when done. Then I emailed Bof A Visa and told them to hold payment. I wanted to be back in the water for april 1. :evil:

Is there a source for new spline material?