Rub Rail Help

Surely Bassey

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What is the best way to rejuvenate my blue rub rail? It's starting to look a little sunburned....
 

midnight-rider

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Check the car care section

There are products at auto parts stores that I've used to brighten up rubber and plastic parts on my mustang. The names have escaped me.....sometimers strikes again. Just ask the store clerks for help.
 

Surely Bassey

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If you mean "Armor All"...it sucks....
There has to be something a bit more heavy duty.
 

midnight-rider

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not armor all

No, hate that stuff makes your car parts look greasy. I'll see if I can find some of the products I've used.
 

seasick

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Acetone will remove the oxidation. The rail has to be dry first.
I use 303 protectorant on mine but I have read several postings about using Mop & Glo floor polish. I may give that a shot.
 

sfc2113

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acetone , then wet sand with fine sand paper. Dont use armor all, or any kind of rubber shining products , it will look like crap in days.
 

jaydub

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A detailer told me he uses a wet Magic Eraser to clean it up then puts on a coat of Collonite Insulator Wax. I tried it today and it looks good. I've used Formula 303 in the past but I'm hoping this will last longer.
 

Strikezone

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sfc2113 said:
acetone , then wet sand with fine sand paper. Dont use armor all, or any kind of rubber shining products , it will look like crap in days.

What grit paper do you use? I would think that it would have to be extremely fine (800-1000).

I've never used 303 protectant, only the 303 fabric waterproofing spray on my canvas. If the protectant works anything like the waterproofer then I'm sold.
 

el jefe

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The guys at Boat Owners Warehouse told me to use 355 Viny Lux Solvent to clean and Mop N Glow to shine. The 355 is amazing. It takes out every speck or mark or discoloration on the rub rail. The mop n glo makes it shine. Two coats of Mop n Glow. My rub rail looks awesome after almost 6 years.
 

sfc2113

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I used acetone, then 600 grit wet and then wiped again with acetone. Do it in 2-3 ft at a time dont try to knock it out in one shot. Also gelcoat areas around where you are wet sandiung should be covered with tape to prevent hitting you gelcoat while wet sanding and wiping with acetone will turn blue or black and may stain your gelocat.



One other thing I learned is to make sure you cover your cleaned up rubrail with paitertape before you compound and wax the hull. I found myself constantly touching the rub rail and leaving white marks form my hands that stained it again.


Have to do it again this weekend , Wax aah On small circle , Wax aaah OFF... beeeeg circle ...

Oh and mop and glow will flake off and start looking like the rubrail has
psoriasis or something.

will post before and after pics.
 

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

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Last weekend i was waxing my boat and by accident i hit the rub rail with my Collinites cleaner, well guess what, i did the rub rail too, then Collinites wax and came out like factory new.
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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El jefe,
Are you saying 6 years ago you applied the mop n glo and it is still holding up? :shock: If so, I'm going to Wal Mart tomorrow to get some! I used the meguairs boat vinyl stuff and it holds up for a month or so. This season I was going to try the 303, but the Collinites looks good too. This Mop-n-glo idea intrigues me.....
 

Surely Bassey

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I worked on my rub rail and it came out better than great. I used Vinyl Lux solvent #355. You really have to work it in, not just wipe it down. I used a rag but maybe a scotch bright pad would have worked better. I had to rub over a 2 foot section maybe 15-20 times with a towel that was wet with vinyl lux to remove all of the oxidation. 2 coats of mop and glow and it looks better then brand new....
thanks everyone.