Hi all...I'm looking for some tips to help remove a seized drain plug. I've gone to 14" wrenchs with no luck and stopped because edges starting to round. Have groung the edges square and my next try will be a 1/2" socket put on backwards and maybe weld two sockets together for the best bite. So I'm wondering if there's any mechanics tricks out there?...thanks in advance..Tom
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seized drain plug?
- Thread starter Butcherboy
- Start date
BobP
GreatGrady Captain
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2005
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- Long Island, NY
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- Sailfish
Sized drain plug in transom?
They are bronze, at least I hope yours is. Just take the entire fitting (female) part of and get the whote shebang. I think my drain plug has just three screws.
If it's the motor gear case slotted plug, it's tough once you let the driver damage the screw. I wouldn't use heat with the alum alloy there.
Ive seen miraculous things done by the local machine shop boys. Way beyond me.
They are bronze, at least I hope yours is. Just take the entire fitting (female) part of and get the whote shebang. I think my drain plug has just three screws.
If it's the motor gear case slotted plug, it's tough once you let the driver damage the screw. I wouldn't use heat with the alum alloy there.
Ive seen miraculous things done by the local machine shop boys. Way beyond me.
Tuna Man
GreatGrady Captain
If it is a Grady drive, mine had an aluminum square headed plug in it when I got it. Only way I was able to remove it was with a pipe wrench and a torch. Secret was to get the area around the plug hot and tap on the square head of the plug as I applied pressure on the wrench handle. The tapping action seems to help with anything immersed in saltwater (loosens 'crud' stuck in threads I suppose). If I understand correctly this is similar to how an electric or pnuematic impact wrench work.
richie rich
Well-Known Member
Tom,
if its your bilge drain, Bob is right, be careful with heat because the plug housing is simply screwed into the transom with self tappers and a bit of 5200...too much heat may break the seal of the adhesive and let water in...if you have to use it and get it hot, I would then remove the plug housing and reseal it again.
If you are talking about the G drive, it should be no big deal to use some heat...its just the brass plug and aluminum G drive that have basically welded together from some corrosion.....use some heat to make the plug expand in the hole, spray some WD40 or similar right at the threads and then walk away and let it cool 20 minutes....the heat will expand the interference fit and break that "corrosion weld" allowing you to break it free. Its best to use the tightest fitting wrench possible, that contacts all or most sides of the plug to keep it from stripping...either a good fitting open end wrench that will grab 3 full sides, or a 6 point socket, not 12 point...I prefer the open end wrench and a pipe extension for leverage....this should give you enough ooomph to break it free....if its completely rounded off...you will have to drill out the brass plug which is soft and not that bad...
if its your bilge drain, Bob is right, be careful with heat because the plug housing is simply screwed into the transom with self tappers and a bit of 5200...too much heat may break the seal of the adhesive and let water in...if you have to use it and get it hot, I would then remove the plug housing and reseal it again.
If you are talking about the G drive, it should be no big deal to use some heat...its just the brass plug and aluminum G drive that have basically welded together from some corrosion.....use some heat to make the plug expand in the hole, spray some WD40 or similar right at the threads and then walk away and let it cool 20 minutes....the heat will expand the interference fit and break that "corrosion weld" allowing you to break it free. Its best to use the tightest fitting wrench possible, that contacts all or most sides of the plug to keep it from stripping...either a good fitting open end wrench that will grab 3 full sides, or a 6 point socket, not 12 point...I prefer the open end wrench and a pipe extension for leverage....this should give you enough ooomph to break it free....if its completely rounded off...you will have to drill out the brass plug which is soft and not that bad...
seized plug
thanks for the good input. It's the drain plug at the bottom of the boat transom. This is our baja boat that lives in Punta Chivato so when I get back in Sept. I'll have everything I might possibly need with me. thanks again...Tom
thanks for the good input. It's the drain plug at the bottom of the boat transom. This is our baja boat that lives in Punta Chivato so when I get back in Sept. I'll have everything I might possibly need with me. thanks again...Tom
richie rich
Well-Known Member
I'm assuming it's the plug for a Grady Drive becaues I can't see the bilge drain taking that much abuse and not tearing out. If the drive is full of water, good luck heating it but it's your best option. When you get it out don't put a brass plug back in there, Aluminum or even PVC but not brass.