I'm replacing the four bimini mounts , two on each side , one for up and one for stow position ,with a sliding track system, on my '84 tournament The old stainless screws on the old hinge mounts are seized,I imagine stainless screws and pot metal brackets. Dissimilar metals. Any tricks out there for getting them loose? Too close to gel coat to put a torch on. I will use tef -gel when I put it back together. Getting her ready for N.C. deep trolling for trout . Thanks.
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Seized screws
- Thread starter mountngrady
- Start date
mountngrady said:I'm replacing the four bimini mounts , two on each side , one for up and one for stow position ,with a sliding track system, on my '84 tournament The old stainless screws on the old hinge mounts are seized,I imagine stainless screws and pot metal brackets. Dissimilar metals. Any tricks out there for getting them loose? Too close to gel coat to put a torch on. I will use tef -gel when I put it back together. Getting her ready for N.C. deep trolling for trout . Thanks.
Use a good penetrant, then use it again and again . Don't know what your timetable is, but if you spray these several times over a period of a week or two, your chances of an uneventful removal are much better. Impact drivers, using a really good (Snap-On) screwdriver with a wrench on the hex by the handle, and smacking the screwdriver into the screws with a hammer can all help. Laying a wet towel on the gelcoat may make the torch an option as well. Patience in this should pay off...
Best wishes,
-Mike
Sometimes turning the bolt in the tighten direction helps break the 'seal'. Use a well fitting screw driver.
That said, it is also sometimes impossible to undo a really badded corroded screw.
Heat may help since the aluminum will expand a bit faster than the stainless. If you can get a plumbers soldering protective mat (used to prevent setting wood on fire when sweating pipes), that will help protect the fiberglass.Just leave some air space behind the mat.
That said, it is also sometimes impossible to undo a really badded corroded screw.
Heat may help since the aluminum will expand a bit faster than the stainless. If you can get a plumbers soldering protective mat (used to prevent setting wood on fire when sweating pipes), that will help protect the fiberglass.Just leave some air space behind the mat.
DaveT
New Member
Find yourself a good impact screwdriver (one you strike with a hammer). Then again, if it's on a fiberglass area, you will probably want to be careful hitting it. The other thing I have had good luck with is, as said before, use an impact driver with a good bit. My Bosch 18V impact driver can drive a 4" screw through solid red oak without predrilling, so, eventhough it's not designed for your purpose, it will most likely work. It's a good tool to have around too...many uses if you need to justify a purchase! Used in conjunction with a good penetrating lube, it will most likely get the job done.
Dave
Dave
Sailfish25
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Sailfish25 said:I've had good luck with "PB Blaster" penetrating oil.
Me too. Best I've tried...
Got all of them loose but one by using a nutdriver setup with a phillips bit and vise grips so I could push with one hand and wrench with the other and pb blaster. Thanks for the advice. I'll drill the last one out if I have to..