I want to add a charger for the trolling motor batteries. Where do the electronics get the shore power from? I wasn’t sure if there is a distribution block somewhere that is hot when shore power is on
Shore power distribution on 306 Canyon
- Thread starter jshallen
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I found Romex coming from shore power that powers my on board charger. Can I splice into that to power a noco 3 bank charger?
JJF
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Hi,
1) I have a 306 with a battery charger. From my reading of the owner's manual and as I understand it, the boat's 12V system is only powered by the batteries. I believe the 110V charger charges the batteries when/while the 12V system is in use. I don't believe there is a 110V distribution block.
My level of certainty on "1" above is 99.50%.
2) I would caution against trying to add an additional charger to the existing 110V. It seems like it would be too much of an additional draw.
My level of certainty on "2" above is 65%.
1) I have a 306 with a battery charger. From my reading of the owner's manual and as I understand it, the boat's 12V system is only powered by the batteries. I believe the 110V charger charges the batteries when/while the 12V system is in use. I don't believe there is a 110V distribution block.
My level of certainty on "1" above is 99.50%.
2) I would caution against trying to add an additional charger to the existing 110V. It seems like it would be too much of an additional draw.
My level of certainty on "2" above is 65%.
I have a shore powered battery charger as well. I see a piece of romper going into the bundle heading to the shore power.
If I may, and please don't take offense, but from what you've written it sounds like you're new to wiring? "Electronics" don't get shore power... they are 12V items and get their power from the 12V distribution block/breakers/fuses. Your battery charger simply keeps the batteries charged when you're not running the engines. Also, if you are new to doing wiring, your goal of adding a charger means you're now dealing with AC power, not DC... which can be more dangerous. But... that said...
You need to know the power draw of your onboard charger and the new charger and verify that your AC wiring and fuse/breaker can handle the increased load safely. If that's good, you COULD add circuit - but you need to do it properly with a electrical box, clamps and crimp connectors.
Personally, I wouldn't do this since you now have two chargers supplied by the same circuit. If the circuit goes bad... they are both inop. And, you wouldn't have individual control over each.
The best plan... add a new (properly sized) breaker in your AC circuit breaker panel and run a dedicated line for the new charger.
If your boat doesn't have an AC breaker panel then I would consider installing one as they're not overly expensive. This would really be the preferred and cleanest way to do that. It's a bit more money to do it this way (not a whole lot, though), but it's the best way in the long run.
You need to know the power draw of your onboard charger and the new charger and verify that your AC wiring and fuse/breaker can handle the increased load safely. If that's good, you COULD add circuit - but you need to do it properly with a electrical box, clamps and crimp connectors.
Personally, I wouldn't do this since you now have two chargers supplied by the same circuit. If the circuit goes bad... they are both inop. And, you wouldn't have individual control over each.
The best plan... add a new (properly sized) breaker in your AC circuit breaker panel and run a dedicated line for the new charger.
If your boat doesn't have an AC breaker panel then I would consider installing one as they're not overly expensive. This would really be the preferred and cleanest way to do that. It's a bit more money to do it this way (not a whole lot, though), but it's the best way in the long run.
SkunkBoat
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I would add that there is no "Romex" on a boat. Romex is a brand name but generally refers to solid strand NM-B cable for houses. What you see is marine grade tinned stranded duplex or triplex.
NEVER use solid wire on a boat.
SkunkBoat
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Another note for those not familiar...
typical AC wiring uses 3 wires Black Hot, White Neutral, Green Ground. Grady used this color scheme for their AC wiring.
Typical DC color scheme is Red +, Black -, Green Ground, Green/Yellow Bonding. Grady used this color scheme for DC wiring.
This can cause a dangerous situation on a boat if you don't know what you are doing and mix up your Black wires.
There is a safety version of marine wire for DC that uses Yellow instead of Black for the negative and uses Red for Positive.
typical AC wiring uses 3 wires Black Hot, White Neutral, Green Ground. Grady used this color scheme for their AC wiring.
Typical DC color scheme is Red +, Black -, Green Ground, Green/Yellow Bonding. Grady used this color scheme for DC wiring.
This can cause a dangerous situation on a boat if you don't know what you are doing and mix up your Black wires.
There is a safety version of marine wire for DC that uses Yellow instead of Black for the negative and uses Red for Positive.
When I say distribution I meant breaker panel. I can wire a house but someone just closed their eyes and wired this boat. I have a 2 bank charger currently hard wired into the area under the battery compartmen. I just wasn’t sure if there was a sub panel of sorts in the battery compartment or if all of the wiring runs all the way to the back of the boat to individual breakers. I have a 2 bank (10 amp total) charger hard wired but want to have another 3amp x 3 Noco added to shore power. I doubt the total draw would hit 19 amps at the same time.
where is the main breaker panel in the boat? Is it behind the battery selector switch beside the rear seat?
SkunkBoat
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In a typical grady setup for boats with a cabin...
There may be a breaker and a galvanic isolator under the gunnel near the shore power plug. From there the AC wires go to the AC breaker panel in the cabin. There is a breaker for the charger on the panel and wires go back to the charger from the panel.
The owners manual will have generic diagrams and usually a wiring/plumbing layout specific to your model. If you don't have a manual you can download from gradywhite.com
There may be a breaker and a galvanic isolator under the gunnel near the shore power plug. From there the AC wires go to the AC breaker panel in the cabin. There is a breaker for the charger on the panel and wires go back to the charger from the panel.
The owners manual will have generic diagrams and usually a wiring/plumbing layout specific to your model. If you don't have a manual you can download from gradywhite.com
OK, good, that helps. If you didn't see it, take note to the reference about boat "romex"
The main breaker (not necessarily the breaker "panel") should be very close to the shore power inlet. I could help with the location... if I was there on the boat with you... but it's a little hard from where I am!
If the power inlet is where you are asking about, then the breaker should be there, too. But it may be tucked up underneath a little for protection from the elements. Hopefully there's at least a small AC breaker/distribution panel. You could tie into the supply side of the breaker if you really wanted to and then add an inline fuse within about 12" of that to power the new charger. Having a dedicated AC distribution/breaker panel is just a whole lot tidier... and for a future buyer looks a lot more professional and less like someone did it with their eyes closed
JJF
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Hi,
On my 2018 306, on the port side towards the stern and underneath the gunnel cap is a breaker and what I think is the isolator and/or the charger. I don't recall seeing the charger near the batteries in the console (but then again, I never examined this closely).
Hope this helps.
On my 2018 306, on the port side towards the stern and underneath the gunnel cap is a breaker and what I think is the isolator and/or the charger. I don't recall seeing the charger near the batteries in the console (but then again, I never examined this closely).
Hope this helps.
dogdoc
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Where will this new bank be located, I assume in the bow area since trolling batts. Rather than reinvent the wheel if that is the case hijack some ac from the main panel which I would think is in the cabin somewhere and power a smart charger located near the new bank. That should provide relatively short runs of ac and most important dc. Replacing the 2 bank in the bat compartment with a 3 bank would mean a long dc run to the bow. A generic diagram of where things are and are going to be located would help