Sludge Oil in the Remote Oil Tank - Take a Look

[hotajax]

I bought a boat that was 10 years old. Had no idea of how well the old owner maintained it, and service department at his marina was clueless. I wanted to replace whatever 2-cycle oil he had on board with full synthetic 2-cycle Injector oil.

I used a suction gun to suck out whatever oil came out of the big storage tank, and eventually got to the bottom. Then it got ugly - brought up big chunks (yes, chunks) of blue-green Jello. There was about a 1/2" layer of this stuff on the bottom of the tank, and some of it found it's way up to the smaller reserve container that sits on the engine.

Removed the big tank and rinsed it with gasoline to get the sludge out. As far as the little tank on the engine, I drained it the best I could, then I had some conventional 2-cycle oil that I poured in to the little tank, mixed it up with the sludge, then let it drain. Repeated this part 4 times until all the sludge was gone from the little tank. Only used about a quart of oil for the whole process. Might want to take a look yourself if you haven't topped off your big oil tank yet.

 

[catch22]

Good topic. I think that's something that gets overlooked. Last year had an alarm going off intermitently. Sure enough, sludge in the big tank. Cleaned it out and replaced the filter at bottom of big tank. No problems since.
Did you change your filter?

 

[Boats Rock]

I found the same thing but I used diesel fuel to clean out the tank. Less fumes.

 

[Grog]

When I bought mine one had water in it. Unfortunatlely I didn't check it and found out after the engine blew. I'll never make that mistake again.

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

you want to clean them every year and replace the filters everyear

it is in our tech manuals

 

[hotajax]

you want to clean them every year and replace the filters everyear

it is in our tech manuals

You mentioned "filters". I know about the fuel filter, but what other filter are you referring to? The oil filter in the "little" tank under the engine cover? Is that replaceable or do you clean it up??

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

you want to clean them every year and replace the filters everyear

it is in our tech manuals

You mentioned "filters". I know about the fuel filter, but what other filter are you referring to? The oil filter in the "little" tank under the engine cover? Is that replaceable or do you clean it up??

there is one on the back of the remote (in boat tank) you must replace
i clean the one on engine and replace the washer on bottom

 

[Grog]

With the tank out, follow the oil line from the tank to the pump. It doesn't look like much it's only a small screen filter.

 

[Strikezone]

My alarm sounded yesterday when I stopped running ~4200 RPM to idle. Initially I thought it was a cooling problem but after waiting about 15 minutes the alarm would still sound. I checked the remote oil tank and found it to be nearly empty. After adding a gallong of oil to the tank and checking the engine tank (which was full) I was able to get the engine started without the alarm sounding. I nearly made it home and the alarm sounded again while running ~4100 RPM. Got a good Samaritan to tow me back to the marina (luckily only a short distance away).

I haven't had a chance to check into the cause but hope to this week. The poppet valve and both thermostats were changed about 150 hrs. ago. I will recheck these and also change the impeller as it probably needs to be replaced.

My question is: Could the alarm be sounding because of a clogged oil filter? I've never let the remote tank empty as much as it did yesterday and think that it could have sucked some debris.

 

[catch22]

Could the alarm be sounding because of a clogged oil filter? I've never let the remote tank empty as much as it did yesterday and think that it could have sucked some debris.

Imo, yes. As mentioned above, sludge definitely plays a factor in how well oil is pumped to the remote tank.

I'd empty your remote tank into a container, (screen/filter it, to be safe). Clean the tank with either gasoline or diesel, (as mentioned above). Replace the small filter on the bottom outlet of the remote tank. There's a screen inside the top of the motor tank too. I don't think you have to replace it, you can just clean it. Might want to empty and clean the motor oil tank too.

 

[BobP]

The oil alarm sounds based on levels in the onboard and/or remote tank.

You may want to drain the onboard tank to see if you pumped water and or sludge into the onboard tank.

Did the alarm sound from high temp or low oil?

 

[Strikezone]

BobP,
The temp alarm bar was flashing as were the three oil bars. This is what has me confused. Since the engine oil tank was full when I lifted the cowling at the moment I'm leaning towards the problem being heat related. I'm still not clear if the oil alarm would sound with the engine tank full.

 

[Grog]

According to the manual, all 3 flashing is engine tank empty and remote tank OK. Check your connections at the remote tank, but that doesn't explain the overheat.

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

if you guys need the factory training guide shoot me an email

 

[Strikezone]

Just in time, thanks for the offer but I have a Yamaha service manual. I'm going to do some P.M. this weekend and change all filters, impeller, clean oil tank, etc. Hope this takes care of problem.

 

[sagamoron]

Is there a part number or name for the filter in the remote tank?

I am getting an alarm and its not an overheat so I am guessing its oil related, I don' t think the sludge has ever been cleaned out.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[BobP]

Strike, be very carefull with these engines. A $6000 powerhead will go up with no alarm at all.

Verify your oil pump is actually pumping oil - just having oil in the onboard tank doesn't cut it. We had another member blow a powerhead when the tank ran dry (auto fill circuit failed) iwith no alarm sounding, float switch was shot.

These engines all should have been desiged with better systems to protect the powerhead from meltdown, they are hardly idiot proof but should be.

I'd suggest a Yamaha mechanic check it all out, then they are responsble should the crap hit the fan. $100 labor to save $6000 and a week or two downtime, seems like a good deal.

Although I'm a hardcore DIYer, I made some costly mistakes. Live & learn. If you were on Long Island , I have experience with two Yamaha mechanics, and would recommend them.

 

[Strikezone]

Good new to report...the cause of my problems was a broken impeller. Once I disassembled the housing it was clear what the problem was. The rubber was torn completely at the shaft. A rebuild of the pump has things working great now.

While I was at it I checked the oil flow according to the service manual and things are pumping good. Tomorrow I will clean the tank and change the filter on the remote tank. While I was at it today I changed the plugs and engine gas filter.

 

[BobP]

Glad to hear it!