Tiny ring terminals

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Diad

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What ring terminals do you guys use for NEMA2K power cable and Garmin power cables? Those wires are TINY! They must be like 22-24AWG. I did not find any heat shrink ones on line. Do these typically get soldered and then heat shrink over that? My plan is to attach to the fuse panel for power (removing inline fuse) from Garmins.

Thanks!
 
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you can strip it twice as long and double it back to use a red terminal.

Solder works but the tiny wire tends to break off easily at the end of the solder.

HEHEHE Good luck with that....you bought a new Blue Seas fuse block and now you have to change everything to ring terminals. And you are going to drop screws into 265 oblivion.

I found a replacement for the old one with 1/4 spade terminals.

I would suggest using fork terminals, especially on the thin wire connections.

I know someone will chime in that ring terminals are best. Not if you run out of screws....
 
On the 1243s, yes, remove inline and go to the fuse block.

On the radar, leave the inline Blade type fuse and go straight to the terminal block (both pos and neg).

Same with Autopilot. Don't go to fuse block. Mine goes back to the Battery ON/OF switch.
 
SkunkBoat said:
you can strip it twice as long and double it back to use a red terminal.

Solder works but the tiny wire tends to break off easily at the end of the solder.

HEHEHE Good luck with that....you bought a new Blue Seas fuse block and now you have to change everything to ring terminals. And you are going to drop screws into 265 oblivion.

I found a replacement for the old one with 1/4 spade terminals.

I would suggest using fork terminals, especially on the thin wire connections.

I know someone will chime in that ring terminals are best. Not if you run out of screws....
Click to expand...
I only lost one screw in this project. And...It was on the old common bus bar. I was moving the feed from the bottom to the top over to the new fuse panel. I was very careful after that but i definitely see what you are saying.
 
SkunkBoat said:
On the 1243s, yes, remove inline and go to the fuse block.

On the radar, leave the inline Blade type fuse and go straight to the terminal block (both pos and neg).

Same with Autopilot. Don't go to fuse block. Mine goes back to the Battery ON/OF switch.
Click to expand...
Why do you say to leave the inline on both the radar and AP? I thought that the whole point was to have everything centralized versus finding inline fuses everywhere. I'm extremely curious on this one.
 
The AP draws a lot of current and its on a lot. If you connect it to the fuse panel it will share the 10 awg wires feeding the panel with everything else on the panel. Its not so much a problem of too much current for the 10 awg to carry but the voltage drop across the wire caused by everything on the panel.
If you go direct to the terminal Block, the block is fed by 6 awg wire back to the breaker/switch.
If you go straight back to the breaker/switch you share almost nothing.

The doppler radars don't draw as much as older radars but again, they are on a lot.

What you want to avoid is everything on your panel running on 11.2 volts, giving you low volt errors on your AP and electronics.
 
That makes sense. Thank you! My terminal block currently has the 6AWG feed, the feed to the fuse panel, the feed to the overhead box, feed to the switch panel, and the Windlass which just goes to the breaker on the dash or maybe to the switch next to the breaker. Do you think that have the radar and AP go to the terminal block is okay? OR if I run them both back to the starboard battery switch or do i put them on the lug of the 40A resettable breaker that i just replaced?
 
Diad said:
That makes sense. Thank you! My terminal block currently has the 6AWG feed, the feed to the fuse panel, the feed to the overhead box, feed to the switch panel, and the Windlass which just goes to the breaker on the dash or maybe to the switch next to the breaker. Do you think that have the radar and AP go to the terminal block is okay? OR if I run them both back to the starboard battery switch or do i put them on the lug of the 40A resettable breaker that i just replaced?
Click to expand...


My AP pump is under the outside sink, behind the tackle drawers. Power cable reached my under gunnel Stbd side On/Off switch. 9ft I think...maybe 11?

Your windlass is not ideal on that 10awg from the terminal block. When you run it, it will cause a big voltage drop. I suppose people get away with it because when you are pulling your anchor you are not running AP. Lewmar V700 for instance recommends 6 awg (for a 60ft round trip)and the use of a solenoid to control it.


I ran the radar down the hardtop pipe to the terminal block. No need to add wire.
fyi, you need to run the radar network cable first, before power and N2k and whatever. You need room for the connector to fish thru.
One end has a removable thread. You will need a hole in your hardtop at least that big. I recommend putting the removable end up top and the fixed end on your 1243.

You only have one Garmin network into the hardtop for radar. I had three garmin network cables for Radar, sonar black box and another MDF.

The Garmin Marine Network cable is NOT pinned the same as a standard ethernet crossover.
Try not to cut that cable! You need a tool, connectors, a diagram, and really good eyesight...and luck....
 
SkunkBoat said:
My AP pump is under the outside sink, behind the tackle drawers. Power cable reached my under gunnel Stbd side On/Off switch. 9ft I think...maybe 11?

Your windlass is not ideal on that 10awg from the terminal block. When you run it, it will cause a big voltage drop. I suppose people get away with it because when you are pulling your anchor you are not running AP. Lewmar V700 for instance recommends 6 awg (for a 60ft round trip)and the use of a solenoid to control it.


I ran the radar down the hardtop pipe to the terminal block. No need to add wire.
fyi, you need to run the radar network cable first, before power and N2k and whatever. You need room for the connector to fish thru.
One end has a removable thread. You will need a hole in your hardtop at least that big. I recommend putting the removable end up top and the fixed end on your 1243.

You only have one Garmin network into the hardtop for radar. I had three garmin network cables for Radar, sonar black box and another MDF.

The Garmin Marine Network cable is NOT pinned the same as a standard ethernet crossover.
Try not to cut that cable! You need a tool, connectors, a diagram, and really good eyesight...and luck....
Click to expand...
I am putting the pump where you did based off of your thread on the subject. I’ll run the power to the on/off switch. Think I’m just going to replace that switch anyway.

my current Furuno radar is in the electronics box. I plan to use the same mounting pedestal and hopefully hole in the hardtop. From there I’ll go down the hardtop pipe. I appreciate the insight on which end up! I plan to get the boat back in a week and then do the transducer and radar while in the driveway. Then I’ll put her on the lift while I wait for new wire marine to send me panels. I don’t ”need” electronics for trophy rockfish season. It’s limited to the Chesapeake Bay and I know that water pretty well. Watch, it will be the foggiest spring season on record

not sure what to do with the windlass. I’ve never had one before so I’ll see how it goes and then, possibly, make changes
 
Diad said:
What ring terminals do you guys use for NEMA2K power cable and Garmin power cables? Those wires are TINY! They must be like 22-24AWG. I did not find any heat shrink ones on line. Do these typically get soldered and then heat shrink over that? My plan is to attach to the fuse panel for power (removing inline fuse) from Garmins.

Thanks!
Click to expand...



SkunkBoat said:
you can strip it twice as long and double it back to use a red terminal.

Solder works but the tiny wire tends to break off easily at the end of the solder.

HEHEHE Good luck with that....you bought a new Blue Seas fuse block and now you have to change everything to ring terminals. And you are going to drop screws into 265 oblivion.

I found a replacement for the old one with 1/4 spade terminals.

I would suggest using fork terminals, especially on the thin wire connections.

I know someone will chime in that ring terminals are best. Not if you run out of screws....
Click to expand...
I think SkunkBoat has the right idea. Double up the wire and use red lugs. I use the bigger ones too - like blue or yellow. The Ancor's are good but overkill. Pull on the crimps afterwards. Ring terminals and power strips are the best choice for discrete wiring on a boat. Forks are ok too. I also use the Euro Strips.

 
Last edited:
Diad said:
I am putting the pump where you did based off of your thread on the subject. I’ll run the power to the on/off switch. Think I’m just going to replace that switch anyway.

my current Furuno radar is in the electronics box. I plan to use the same mounting pedestal and hopefully hole in the hardtop. From there I’ll go down the hardtop pipe. I appreciate the insight on which end up!
Click to expand...
yep the point is that if you go up with the "small" end and out the hardtop, you have a smaller hole and to remove you can pull it back into the hardtop.
The other way you have to have a bigger hole or pull the whole cable up from MFD, thru pipe and out the hardtop..
 
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