Totalscan transducer mounting on 1996 Islander

deepdesire

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Presently there is a B744 in a fairing block on the starboard transducer flat. In an effort to keep clean water over the new transducer does anyone have any experience with where to mount and how to route the cable so it is protected and not visible
 

DennisG01

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Wiring... just follow other wires - they should be going through the existing wire chaseways. Mounting can be done in any number of places - largely dependent on other structures already in the bilge. Compare accessible areas to structures and lifting strakes. Look on the port side, as well.

If you're doing a complete through the hull mount you'll, ideally, want to glass in a fairing block.
 

SkunkBoat

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For a single motor (cw rotation) the standard answer is Stb side between the trim tab and keel, giving enough clearance to the motor.

Don't have much choice. Other side will have upward rotation of prop which "could "effect readings.

I have twins so mine is at the keel. I used a Sternmate so no holes.
Cable is visible. Cable tied to stern mate then one sticky tie above waterline next to motor, one sticky inside motor well and then into the cable passthru on the motor well.
Otherwise you are drilling a hole in the transom big enough for the plug end of the cable.
 
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deepdesire

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The 96 Islander has the euro transom. The running surface of the hull stops 31" forward of the transom. The design is like a full width bracket. The trim tab pistons sit in ventilated pockets, the vents terminate in the motor well. I was hoping to provide a point of entry in the starboard pocket to keep the cable protected and hidden. The top of the pocket is above the waterline. I just dont know how I would make a watertight penetration for the transducer cable.
 

Jdurb

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If it was me, I would try and find a comparable thru hull from airmar and forget about the transom mount. Probably not what you want to hear, but in the long run you would probably be happier knowing you don't have some weird routing of cables under your boat or a penetration to your transom and having to worry about that leaking and rotting your transom.
 

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You could get a fairing block for the Totalscan transducer and mount it as a thru hull on the port flat.
You'll probably lose some of the sidescan to starboard due to hull.
 

Jdurb

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I googled the total scan and they make a thru hull that looks like it would fit on the flat.
 

deepdesire

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I'm pretty sure as Skunkboat says, the sidescan feature is lost when mounting as a thru hull. After some more investigation I feel confident about routing the cable through the trim tab pocket on the starboard side. These recesses are huge. Much larger than necessary since they just house the Bennett trim cylinders. Both are visible on my boat from the inside. Port side by removing the trash can / baitwell. Starboard side I cut the platform and installed an 8" screw in deck plate in front of the transom door so I could replace the cockpit drains hoses and thru hulls. Looking for a cable gland that I could bed in the top of the trim tab tower next to where the hydraulic line for the trim tab piston penetrates. It must have an internal diameter of .99" to pass the connector and have a compression washer small enough to seal to the cable. I don't know the actual cable diameter, I assume approx. .25". I want to leave the existing thru hull transducer and fairing block in place. The port side transducer flat is the location of the washdown seacock.
 

mleads310

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Depending on what MFD you have you can install a pair of totalscan tru hull transducers(or similarly named pending you MFD) without loosing any sidescan

Lowrance structurescan-SKU: 000-11460-001
Raymarine- realvision-RV-200

Not sure if simrad has a comparable transducer pair for totalscan but you might be able to call and ask them if your running a simrad?

If none of these above options work because of compatibility, you can buy the single thru hull totalscan and glass it in (glass in a 0 degree transducer box/fairing) as close to the centerline/keel as possible and you shouldn't loose any detail on either side. I used to have a simrad go 9 with a transom mounted totalscan, on a classic mako with a single outboard. I had to place it somewhat high up due to pickups etc and barely lost any image to prop wash...lowered it a few inches and seen both side clearly. Anywhere near the centerline of your hull should produce excellent results.

Also slightly off topic- I currently have a 2001 282 and was curious what the dimensions of your transducer pad/flat is? I have a B744 on mine without a fairing block, previous owner, and assumed the previous owner installed it that way because of size restrictions? I'm not complaining that he had done it this way because I'm getting amazing results but I'm in the process of replacing with a possible b265 and wasn't sure if it would fit.... without the fairing of course. I'm not pulling boat for winter for another month and was hoping u could shoot me your dimensions?
 

deepdesire

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The transducer flats on my Islander are approx. 3 1/4 wide x 14" long. The fairing block had to be slightly shaped. I would recommend the fairing block if application allows, the performance is incredible. My raymarine A series reads the bottom with great detail at 26 kts. I never loose the bottom reading due to speed.
 

deepdesire

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Trying to avoid installing two transducers to utilize the structure scan feature of the GO9 xse. The transom mount totalscan is off the table. Is there anyone who has mounted a totalscan thru hull closer to the keel to degate the issues of the hull blocking the side scan feature. Navico offers a total scan thru hull with fairing block that they claim will handle up to 5 degrees of deadrise.