I was looking for this info and couldn't find it before I put my transducer in, so I thought I'd share my results FYI. Lots of info on how to do a shoot-thru installation but no data on transducer location on a 209.
I was installing a Garmin 546 with their stock transom mount transducer in a 2005 GW 209 and wanted to do a shoot-thru-hull installation to avoid holes in the transom and wires running outside. Thankfully GW put tubes and pull cords in from the console to the bilge area to make it easy to run the transducer cable from bilge to console.
Build a dam out of styrofoam packing material about 1/2" thick. Just a rectangle with a hole cut out of the middle to make a well about 1/2" larger overall length and width than the transducer to hold the epoxy while it sets up. I epoxyed this dam to the hull right on the centerline about 6" ahead of the livewell and washdown thru-hull fittings after cleaning and sanding the fiberglass of the hull. I used 5 minute epoxy available in hardware and hobby stores. The kind that comes in two equal bottles. 15 or 30 minute might have been a better choice but I had 5 minute on hand.
After the epoxy on the dam sets, mix about a 1/4" deep puddle of epoxy right in the well formed by the dam, being careful to not mix air bubbles into the epoxy. Spread some epoxy on the face of the transducer and then press it down into the well until hitting the hull, wiggling it around while installing to get a good wetting of the transducer face to the epoxy. Then run tape over the top of the transducer to the hull on either side to hold it in position while the epoxy sets up. Make sure to wind up with the transducer face parallel to the water line.
Obviously this is considered a permanent installation but I have been told that a heat gun will loosen the epoxy and allow the transducer to be removed. But I wouldn't count on reusing the transducer afterwards.
I can now track the bottom while on plane and get good bottom lock while trolling or drifting. I've tried it up to 80' so far with great results. I expect it will easily do more. And the water temperature reading seems to be very close to what is reported. I'm assuming that the fiberglass conducts the water temperature pretty well.
Hope this helps someone.
I was installing a Garmin 546 with their stock transom mount transducer in a 2005 GW 209 and wanted to do a shoot-thru-hull installation to avoid holes in the transom and wires running outside. Thankfully GW put tubes and pull cords in from the console to the bilge area to make it easy to run the transducer cable from bilge to console.
Build a dam out of styrofoam packing material about 1/2" thick. Just a rectangle with a hole cut out of the middle to make a well about 1/2" larger overall length and width than the transducer to hold the epoxy while it sets up. I epoxyed this dam to the hull right on the centerline about 6" ahead of the livewell and washdown thru-hull fittings after cleaning and sanding the fiberglass of the hull. I used 5 minute epoxy available in hardware and hobby stores. The kind that comes in two equal bottles. 15 or 30 minute might have been a better choice but I had 5 minute on hand.
After the epoxy on the dam sets, mix about a 1/4" deep puddle of epoxy right in the well formed by the dam, being careful to not mix air bubbles into the epoxy. Spread some epoxy on the face of the transducer and then press it down into the well until hitting the hull, wiggling it around while installing to get a good wetting of the transducer face to the epoxy. Then run tape over the top of the transducer to the hull on either side to hold it in position while the epoxy sets up. Make sure to wind up with the transducer face parallel to the water line.
Obviously this is considered a permanent installation but I have been told that a heat gun will loosen the epoxy and allow the transducer to be removed. But I wouldn't count on reusing the transducer afterwards.
I can now track the bottom while on plane and get good bottom lock while trolling or drifting. I've tried it up to 80' so far with great results. I expect it will easily do more. And the water temperature reading seems to be very close to what is reported. I'm assuming that the fiberglass conducts the water temperature pretty well.
Hope this helps someone.