While replacing the transome drain tubes one of the flared end has developed a small crack. I must have cranked too hard. Do you think I should replace it or let it go? The crack is on the outside of the boat and is in the flared end not the inside of tube I used plenty of epoxy and have a good seal. I'm dealing with an older Grady overnighter that will someday need a transome in a few years.. Any feedback welcome.. Thanks Jmbadge,, :?
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Transome drain tubes
- Thread starter jmbadge
- Start date
cdwood
GreatGrady Captain
Your call on replacing cracked tube, I can tell you that this is one of the primary locations for allowing water into the transom.
Tucker
GreatGrady Captain
How come nobody uses the plastic drain tubes, much easier to install? These flared brass jobs seem like nothing but a PIA.
georgemjr
Well-Known Member
I liked the post from the guy who sealed with epoxy and gelcoated them. Why do we need the tubes at all if the holes are properly sealed. We rely on gelcoat and resin to keep the rest of the boat dry, why not these holes? Also, why arent they just a little lower so all of the water can drain out. The little left is an annoyance of mine...
cdwood
GreatGrady Captain
Another option is to epoxy pvc tubes in place of the brass. This has worked out very well for me.
richie rich
Well-Known Member
There's no technical reason to actually have a tube inserted in the hole. The hole is drilled after the boats been layed up, and the builder doesn't want to take the time to resin a hole and gel coat it afterwards...too much time and it has to get out the door....so they sleeve and crimp it and out she goes.
cdwood
GreatGrady Captain
richie, have to beg your pardon here, this hole is drilled and leaves raw core plywood which will suck water like there's no tomorrow.
The brass tubes don't last for s**t, 2 to 3 years on a boat that's slipped.
That is an area that needs serious waterproofing, technically since the mfg. does not epoxy the core here, all that can be done should be done.
Since pvc lasts as long as it does without regard to uv or saltwater do you not see any advantage to this process?
The brass tubes don't last for s**t, 2 to 3 years on a boat that's slipped.
That is an area that needs serious waterproofing, technically since the mfg. does not epoxy the core here, all that can be done should be done.
Since pvc lasts as long as it does without regard to uv or saltwater do you not see any advantage to this process?
richie rich
Well-Known Member
CD, I think we're on the same page here. When a builder is done with installing the wood core and has finished the outside and inside skin, the boat moves over to hardware installation and finishing. They drill holes for the drain tubes, deck drain thruhulls, cleats and wire ways, which exposes the wood core (especially end grain) all over again. To make it water tight, the proper way would be to resin/glass the hole and then gel coat the hole (for finished look purposes). That would make the hole as water tight as the rest of the boat.
But that takes extra time to do and extra time is money to a builder...so they're not going to hold up production for that....so they simply "seal" the thruhull with caulk, they only use a rubber or plastic boot for the wire ways, and they mechanically "sleeve" the drain holes with a brass (which should actually be bronze for marine use) or in your case, PVC tube because its faster and more cost effective for them. But as you can see from the numerous posts about wet cores, each one of these areas have shown to allow water into the wood and causing rot. If they took the time to do it right in the first place, these caulks, sleeves and boots would be out of the equation...the only protection the core needs is resin and a little glass...the rest of these items would be more for appearance, as they have shown not to be worth anything as far as long-term protection of the core is concerned.
So IMHO, they are not necessary if the job was done correctly in the first place. The PVC in your case will work for a while and longer than the brass, I agree, but using resin/glass and a little gel coat for looks is something an owner can do now if he or she is thinking about replacement, and should last indefinitely.
But that takes extra time to do and extra time is money to a builder...so they're not going to hold up production for that....so they simply "seal" the thruhull with caulk, they only use a rubber or plastic boot for the wire ways, and they mechanically "sleeve" the drain holes with a brass (which should actually be bronze for marine use) or in your case, PVC tube because its faster and more cost effective for them. But as you can see from the numerous posts about wet cores, each one of these areas have shown to allow water into the wood and causing rot. If they took the time to do it right in the first place, these caulks, sleeves and boots would be out of the equation...the only protection the core needs is resin and a little glass...the rest of these items would be more for appearance, as they have shown not to be worth anything as far as long-term protection of the core is concerned.
So IMHO, they are not necessary if the job was done correctly in the first place. The PVC in your case will work for a while and longer than the brass, I agree, but using resin/glass and a little gel coat for looks is something an owner can do now if he or she is thinking about replacement, and should last indefinitely.
cdwood
GreatGrady Captain
Can't argue that epoxy/glass and gel would provide the best seal and can certainly see why builders can't take the time to do this.
Have you seen anybody that does?
Seems like lining a hole that's only an inch wide by 2 or 3 inches deep, with glass and gel would be pretty tricky.
Have you seen anybody that does?
Seems like lining a hole that's only an inch wide by 2 or 3 inches deep, with glass and gel would be pretty tricky.
richie rich
Well-Known Member
CD,
I have not seen a new production boat like that, but I've seen glassed holes like that on owners boats...especially on some home built wood cored boats. Guys are pretty crafty using soft plastic tubing and even balloons to wrap a layer or two of resin/glass over the outside, let cure and then cut and removed the plastic tube, foam tube or a balloon or even cardboard core (or something similar, I forget)....now you have a glass "shell" that you epoxy in and fair and gelcoat or paint. If a builder set up a jig to make these small parts, they could do it...they choose not to because its too much work for them.
I've also seen it done on garboard drain holes, scupper holes, holes through the bilge/bulkheads instead of just caulking in a PVC tube, etc.
You can even just resin the hole oversized with milled fiber thickened epoxy and then ream it out to spec when cured and just paint it with a good 2 part urethane. That's how many epoxy manufacturers tell you to do bolt holes.......I tell ya, if you do some searches out there, you'll see some real ingenious stuff guys come up with.......these are all just options to the standard from the manufacturer.....it comes down to personal choice I guess.
I have not seen a new production boat like that, but I've seen glassed holes like that on owners boats...especially on some home built wood cored boats. Guys are pretty crafty using soft plastic tubing and even balloons to wrap a layer or two of resin/glass over the outside, let cure and then cut and removed the plastic tube, foam tube or a balloon or even cardboard core (or something similar, I forget)....now you have a glass "shell" that you epoxy in and fair and gelcoat or paint. If a builder set up a jig to make these small parts, they could do it...they choose not to because its too much work for them.
I've also seen it done on garboard drain holes, scupper holes, holes through the bilge/bulkheads instead of just caulking in a PVC tube, etc.
You can even just resin the hole oversized with milled fiber thickened epoxy and then ream it out to spec when cured and just paint it with a good 2 part urethane. That's how many epoxy manufacturers tell you to do bolt holes.......I tell ya, if you do some searches out there, you'll see some real ingenious stuff guys come up with.......these are all just options to the standard from the manufacturer.....it comes down to personal choice I guess.