Windlass kit

[Rustygaff]

I would find out how Grady wires a windlass on your boat. Should be able to see from the diagram in the owner's manual. If you don't run a dedicated line to the windlass motor, you could run the risk of disrupting power to your electronics and things. The control power to the windlass relays, OK. But not the motor itself.

Looking at the wiring diagram for my boat (with a single battery selector switch) it appears that they run a 50A protected 2ga. feed to the console that everything runs off of except the always hot bilge pumps. I will grab the power there and mount the breaker next to the up/down switch somewhere on the helm.

 

[Rustygaff]

Another question as I am beginning to accumulate some materials for this project....
My boat is pre-wired for the factory windlass option and as mentioned before, I believe that the raw power is taken from the 4 ga. feed from the batteries (in the transom) terminated in the helm/console.

I believe that GW runs 8 ga. wire from the helm to the anchor locker which gets connected to the relay which will be mounted inside the helm/console. Now what size wire should be used for the short run (I imagine only a couple of feet) from the 4 ga. termination lug to the 35A breaker and on to the relay? I will need to run a hot and a ground this short distance. I am not sure if GW provided these wire and left them coiled but I would think not. Obviously I have yet to get inside my console to see exactly what is there. Thanks again on this. You guys have been a great help.

On a side note, before I even begin this windlass project, I still have to mount a new Garmin screen I purchased over the winter and a new thru-hull transducer (along with the usual spring maintenence items) so I will be busy when the weather breaks up here.

I might have answered my own question by reading the Lewmar V700 manual a bit better. For runs up to 33', they allow 8 ga. wire and and beyond that 6 ga. and then 4. Since I will be only running this wire a few feet, 8 ga. should suffice.

 

[Bartkg]

I am thinking about a windlass DIY install in the future. Does anyone know if one can purchase the split anchor locker hatch by itself? I am trying to avoid purchasing the entire kit because I am leaning towards Maxwell vs. the stock Lewmar V700 and ripoff price GW gets for the package which I assume is well over 2K by now.
I could take the existing lid and rip it down on my table saw but it would lack the side material where the cut was made and I would also have to recess the hinge butts where it is already done on the factory pieces. Thanks.

Good morning. I am considering the same exact project on a 2021 Freedom 255. Did you ever complete it and can you share the details if appropriate.

I am waiting for a response from Grady White on part availability and pricing and also considering the deck plate option depending on the prices of the split hatch, if it is even available. But I am leaning towards keeping things original as much as possible. I cannot find salvage parts no matter how hard I search.

Also curious if you ever found out if GW pre-wired for this or exactly how you wired it?

Thanks to anyone who has insight on this potential project.

I am thinking about a windlass DIY install in the future. Does anyone know if one can purchase the split anchor locker hatch by itself? I am trying to avoid purchasing the entire kit because I am leaning towards Maxwell vs. the stock Lewmar V700 and ripoff price GW gets for the package which I assume is well over 2K by now.
I could take the existing lid and rip it down on my table saw but it would lack the side material where the cut was made and I would also have to recess the hinge butts where it is already done on the factory pieces. Thanks.