Yamaha 225 Question??

[VCinRI]

I was wondering if anyone may have had this happen?

My twin 225's (2 strokes) sat for about a month. I went to run them and one started fine the others starter just clicked and would not spin over. Volt meter shows 12.5 and drops to 7.5-8 when key is turned when tested at starter.

Here is what I have done so far;
: Checked and cleaned all connections.
: Tested all batteries.
: Switched starters (not the problem)
: By-passed solenoid.
: Removed all plugs, engine spins very slowly and then dies out.
: Switched batteries.
: Tested power at positive solenoid. Tested solenoid with a load.
: Tested power at positive to starter disconnected. 12.5 volts.
: Jumper cables direct from batteries to starter. just clicks.

This is about the extent of my knowledge.
The only other possibility I could think of could be a bad cable somewhere under cockpit.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
VC

 

[Fish Tank]

When you did the jumper from battery to solenoid did you do anything with a jumper for ground?

At first sounds like a bad battery (volt meter won't tell much, you need a load tester), but if you switched batteries and got the same results I'd be looking for a bad ground cable from engine to battery.

 

[VCinRI]

I grounded the jumpers and believed it had a good connection. It is more and more looking like a bad ground somewhere since everything else seems to be checking out.

I am scheduled to be hauled out tomorrow. I was thinking of trying a direct connection from another battery with other cables directly to the starter and see if that is it.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[seasick]

If you are using the same battery then that is eliminated as a possible cause. If you are using a different battery or a separate battery switch, either can be a problem. I agree though that it sounds like a bad connection. One way to tell if that is on the ground side or the hot side is to measure the voltage between the battery ground terminal and the motor ground ( at the starter if you can find the ground wire) but any 'good' ground on the motor will do.
Without load, you should read just about zero volts. When you try to start the motor, if the ground to ground voltage jumps to let's say more than a volt or so, you have a bad connection in the ground wiring. If it stays at zero or so, the voltage drop is in the hot (+12v) side of the wiring.
Don't forget to clean and check the ground connection at the batter first. It needs to be good for the above test to be valid assuming you connect the meter to the cable connector. If you have a helper, you can touch the voltmeter probe to the actual battery terminal instead of the connector.
I hope this makes sense

 

[Tucker]

Hope in made sense to VP. I got lost in the sauce. Please keep us posted with developments VP. I'm scared to death of ground problems. Really had to find.

 

[seasick]

Hope in made sense to VP. I got lost in the sauce. Please keep us posted with developments VP. I'm scared to death of ground problems. Really had to find.

In reality, ground issues are as hard or as easy to find as +12v issues.
As you move away from the source of 12+ ( the battery positive terminal usually) everyone expects to see the same voltage as measured on the positive terminal. Let's say that is approx 12 volts. Under load, the voltage will drop a bit as you move further away due to the resistance of the wires and connectors. That is normal. If there is excessive drop, you may have problems.
What many folks don't realise is the the same logic works for grounds. As you measure from the battery, the voltage should be close to zero volts. If you get a jump. there has to be a bad wire or connection. The key to testing is to have some load running. It should be a decent load, like spreader lights or when the starter is engaged. Since the starter draws the most current, testing to its positive and engine ground will usually show that there is a problem. Having two people while testing is a big help if not a necessity

 

[VCinRI]

I hauled the boat home and tried just about everything. Grounding, connections, different batteries, etc..

All was checking out, no apparent problems.

I then decided to eliminate any battery problems. I took my tractor trailer over and hooked up directly from the engine to the 4 battery system on the truck. I removed all spark plugs and the engine began to spin. A little slow at first and then normal. I reconnected the boat battery system and all was fine. Engine started and ran fine. It has been fine since then.

My thoughts are that during the period of non-use some moisture may have developed in the cylinders and created some friction. Maybe water in fuel?

For future reference, turning the flywheel manually may have achieved the same results.

I am just glad that everything seems to be fine.

Thanks for the help.

VC

 

[Tucker]

I hate when something fixes itself.