Vinyl Seat Repair

[Capt Tom]

Just recently removed the rear jump seats from my Freedom. Both seats have small rips in the top seams. Took by a couple upoulstry shops and the costs to repair was a whole lot more than I anticipated. My question is, has anyone ever had any luck using adhesive to fix a seam? I am able to unfold the upper lip so there is something to hold to.

 

[Fishtales]

Once the thread starts to go, usually it continues to go. I had a similar problem on my last set of enclosure pieces. The sun does a number on the thread and weakens it. I was having a piece resewn each year as a result. The problem you have is you have to take everything apart, resew and then put back together. I'd say you have a couple of options:
- Try some sort of seam seal or glue. My guess is it doesn't work and you won't like the look anyway.
- Resew what you have (disassembly, resew and reassembly).
- Recover. Basically same cost as above except for new material and cutting.
- Check the web. There was a seller here with extra cushions for sale, not sure he had what you were looking for. Check Wise Mfg, they did work for GW in the past may be able to recreate.

 

[Fishtales]

Overstocked Grady White Cushions 100’s to chose from

Come in to M&M boat sales located 2010 Eastern BLVD, Middle river MD

www.greatgrady.com

Here is the thread. Worth a shot.

 

[Capt Tom]

Fishtales you pretty well said it. The DW said don't be a cheapskate and get done right. The first shop guy told me all involved to fix these and the second recommended new material. I am the second owner so he probably used bleach on these, something I never do for that reason. But as far as gluing goes, likely temporary until more of the stitching failed even if I didn't make a mess of it.

 

[Fishtales]

Might as well take a shot then. The end game is the same either way. If you use a seam seal, maybe use those small black binder clips (Staples) to hold things tight while it sets up.
One last thing.. If you can get some sail thread, you may be able to hand sew and tack in place to help hold and set up as well.

 

[DennisG01]

Yeah, it's always kinda hit or miss to how well a seam seal will work. BUT, I have used VLP Vinyl repair - it's under $10 and is clear - and I've actually had really good luck with it. I think you'd have a pretty good shot of this working for you. Here's some tips from what I've learned over the years....

-- Clean everything really well. Alcohol from your medicine cabinet, not the liquor cabinet, works well.
-- Don't try and do the whole thing at once. Do it in sections.
-- Use strips of tape to close any and all gaps. Use them like you would butterfly bandages.
-- Do a few sections and put the tape back on to keep the gap closed while it dries overnight.
-- Then do a few more sections.
-- The more careful you are with these sections will result in better results (less wrinkly).
-- Basically, get the seam pulled back together nicely with the strips of tape, then remove one or two (non-adjacent) and glue and replace the tape.
-- You can always come back and lay more glue on top for better adhesion.
-- Be sure to put some glue over the areas at either end where the thread still is - to help keep it from coming undone in the future. You may even want to go over the entire seam with a small amount of the glue. And anywhere else where it looks "iffy".

The top seams also get the brunt of UV exposure, so that's certainly a factor, too. If you don't already use it, buy some 303 Protectant and use it on a regular basis. Even let it soak into the seams. It's the best stuff out there for vinyl - including for the stitching. Never use something like ArmorAll - guess what it can do? Degrade the stitching!

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

Once the thread starts to go, usually it continues to go. I had a similar problem on my last set of enclosure pieces. The sun does a number on the thread and weakens it. I was having a piece resewn each year as a result. The problem you have is you have to take everything apart, resew and then put back together. I'd say you have a couple of options:
- Try some sort of seam seal or glue. My guess is it doesn't work and you won't like the look anyway.
- Resew what you have (disassembly, resew and reassembly).
- Recover. Basically same cost as above except for new material and cutting.
- Check the web. There was a seller here with extra cushions for sale, not sure he had what you were looking for. Check Wise Mfg, they did work for GW in the past may be able to recreate.

Wise won't do jack for you . I called yesterday and need seats and bolsters done or new. They politely said they don't sell to the public regarding Grady. Grady told me to to go to my dealer. Then Grady told me because my boat is now older than decade they can't guarantee new cushions for a 2020 228 will work on on an 08 228. I guess it's time to just chuck the old boat and buy a new one to get new cushions. ;-).

Seriously though, don't bother calling Wise.

 

[Fishtales]

Interesting. I contacted them 2 years ago. I got the aft rear seat for my Marlin for $340. That included the chrome metal frame, the seat rack, cushion and fabric installed. literally just had to bolt on. Maybe they have changed... Sorry.

 

[Capt Tom]

Thanks Dennis, I'm going to give the VLP a try. Was planning on using the Loctite vinyl adhesive but I think I will give this a shot instead.

 

[DennisG01]

You're welcome, Cappie! Probably that Loctite would work just as well - they make good stuff.

 

[Capt Tom]

I went ahead and did the repair with the VLP. Did this in my shop and cleaned the the seams real well. This stuff is great if it holds as advertised, you can hardly tell there was a repair. I was able to apply a bead across the whole seam after the main repair cured overnight. This stuff dries fairly transparent and seem very flexible.

 

[Fishtales]

Let us know how it holds up. Nice to see they have an adhesive option.

 

[oliver305]

In order to repair cracks or flaking, you first need to cover it with a thin layer of silicone adhesive. Once the silicone adhesive cures then you can paint and it should look as good as new.

 

[garyroe]

My vinyl boat seats have yellow discoloring and Mildew stains from being in the coastal sun. Is there any product that can clean it effectively?
I found the product I need in here: https://www.ridetheducksofseattle.com/best-boat-vinyl-cleaners/#more-189 Thanks!

 

[Fishtales]

A few threads on various mold and mildew cleaners. Do a search.

 

[Fishtales]

FYI. A cut and paste from another member... Hope he/she is ok with it.


I am a marine upholsterer and have been at it for 25 years....Here are some tips:

"the other thing that works well on those type of stains, is to clean it using a Mr Clean Magic Eraser sponge. the sponge is an ultra fine material that seems to be able to get into the small spots/grooves better than a standard brush or sponge that is too thick/course to get the micro spots." This is absolutely the WORST thing to clean your seats with. More info below on it.
"Chris, Whoever did that upholstery is good! That is one of the cleanest installs I've seen. Doesn't look like there's a wrinkle anywhere. " This is why you pay a professional and stop doing a lot of the DIY items.

Here is how to take care of marine vinyl:
How To Clean Vinyl Boat Seats & Upholstery
Marine grade vinyl is designed to endure harsh marine conditions, but without proper care and maintenance they will break down much faster. The best way to prolong the look, feel, and longevity of boat seats and other upholstered items is to keep them clean, dry, and out of the long exposure to the sun. Regular application of a UV inhibitor such is highly recommended.Routine Cleaning

• Hose off or remove any large dirt deposits, leaves, etc.
• Make a solution of mild soap and water (¼ cup liquid soap to 1 gallon fresh, clean water)
• Using a clean rag, sponge, or very soft bristle brush, wash upholstery as normal. Try to avoid pooling water into the seams, as this leads to water soaking into the foam and will result in mold
• Rinse the soap solution off the vinyl using fresh clean water with a light fan spray
• Wipe the vinyl dry with a soft, clean towel. Allow to sit in the sun if possible to assure complete drying

Deep Cleaning

• When thoroughly dry, apply a vinyl cleaner, such as 303 Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner, and rub into the vinyl with a soft clean cloth or soft bristled brush. It may seem redundant to clean with mild soap first but that step is necessary to remove sunscreen, sweat residue, dirt and particles so the vinyl cleaner will penetrate the vinyl uninhibited.
• Remove excess cleaner with a soft cloth.

UV Protection (highly recommended)

• Use 303 Areospace Protectant. Spray on vinyl completely wetting the surface.
• Using a soft, dry cloth, wipe until the vinyl is dry. Be sure to absorb all excess protectant by wiping and polishing until completely dry. This will provide a finish coating that repels stains and provides UV protection.
• Apply every 3 to 5 weeks for maximum UV protection, if the boat is used with great frequency or is left uncovered in the weather
• Highly recommended to prolong the life of your boat seats and marine upholstery. Follow label directions.

Mold Stains & Full Renewal

• Magic Eraser often works quite well at removing stains from the surface of marine vinyl, but use of this product will remove the protective coating on the vinyl and will expedite the decay process as it is a micro-fine polisher. I highly recommend to AVOID the use of Magic Eraser products.
• Mix a solution of IOSSO Mold & Mildew Stain Remover, Star-Brite mildew remover (or similar product) per instructions.
• Wet the area with the mixture then let soak for about 5-10 min.
• Scrub the area with a sponge or soft cloth. For stubborn stains, add ¼ cup Clorox bleach to the soap/water mixture. Having the vinyl warm from the sun may help in removing stubborn stains. Spot treatment of staining may be done with spray Clorox Clean-Up. Make sure if sprayed on stitched areas that they are rinsed well with fresh, clean water.
• Grease, petroleum, or oil based stains can be removed with Goo Gone (citrus based cleaner)…DO NOT use Goof Off, which is an acetone based cleaner!

Do

• Use mild and specialized cleaners such as – Dreft Laundry Soap, IOSSO Stain Remover, Star-Brite cleaner, 303 Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner, 303 Aerospace Protectant.
• Apply a UV inhibitor regularly to prolong the life and look of your marine vinyl upholstery
• Clean thoroughly after using the boat. Sweat, sunscreen, and dirt are the major enemies of your interior. The simplest and easiest way to protect your interior during use is to place beach towels or other coverings on the seats while using them. Preventative maintenance is always easier than repair or replacement.

Note: Nothing will clean Sharpie marker and ink stains off of vinyl boat seats and upholstery with any true effectiveness. When the ink penetrates into the vinyl it cannot be removed. The mark may be dulled in color and become a little bit less noticeable by using a solvent but the solvent will permanently damage the vinyl in the process. The only way to fix it is to replace the affected panel in the upholstery
Do Not

• Do not use harsh cleansers such as- Ammonia, Windex, Simple Green, etc., - while most of these won’t immediately effect the appearance, they slowly break down the vinyl reducing its lifespan.
• Use a Magic Eraser to remove stains.
• Use excessive amounts of bleach, especially pool bleach (chlorine), which is 10x the strength of household bleach

 

[jillyrubyjane]

I think you can use upholstery fabrics to cover your damaged seats. I used to use Marine Vinyl Fabric 5 Yards, as described and worked great for recovering my boat seats.

 

[Capt Tom]

Well here is an update on this seat repair with the Performix VLP. It has been well over a year and this stuff is really holding up well. In the real world it is hardly even noticable.

 

[Fishtales]

Nice work. Looks like the stuff works.

 

[Crazyfish1]

Nice work. Looks like the stuff works.