HELP...Transom Swell - Express 360

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Either that or make them an offer based on an actual transom replacement estimate from an experienced and reputable firm, plus factor in potential cost overruns, transport to and from repair facility and personal effort/aggravation. Who knows? Maybe the seller is aware that the transom condition is an issue ( I’d be suprised if they weren’t) and might want to work with a motivated buyer. Given the current economic conditions, there might not be a lot of buyers out there in the next several months. I don’t think I’d want to sell a boat right now unless I absolutely needed to.
 
Keeldad said:
Either that or make them an offer based on an actual transom replacement estimate from an experienced and reputable firm, plus factor in potential cost overruns, transport to and from repair facility and personal effort/aggravation. Who knows? Maybe the seller is aware that the transom condition is an issue ( I’d be suprised if they weren’t) and might want to work with a motivated buyer. Given the current economic conditions, there might not be a lot of buyers out there in the next several months. I don’t think I’d want to sell a boat right now unless I absolutely needed to.
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Good point. I have a composite company that’s going to take a look at it Friday. I’m told they’ve done this many times on Grady’s and they do great work. Hopefully I can get a good estimate/evaluation from them and go from there. Thanks for your input...
 
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I would move on if I was you.
Did you check this one in FL? https://www.boattrader.com/boat/2010-grady-white-360-express-7352346/
I know it's more expensive but later model same engines with lower hours and the big one NO BOTTOM paint lift kept. If kept on a lift all its life that's the boat to buy.

Good luck in your search, it should a buyers market, if you are not in a hurry i'm sure you will find the right boat.
 
wrxhoon said:
I would move on if I was you.
Did you check this one in FL? https://www.boattrader.com/boat/2010-grady-white-360-express-7352346/
I know it's more expensive but later model same engines with lower hours and the big one NO BOTTOM paint lift kept. If kept on a lift all its life that's the boat to buy.

Good luck in your search, it should a buyers market, if you are not in a hurry i'm sure you will find the right boat.
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Thanks...yes, saw this one. I live in Maryland, would be quite a haul getting her home!
 
LBass I have a 98 Islander that had no swelling at all. We took the engines off to replace the bang strip and the entire transom was delaminated. after cutting it open the wood was very wet. We fiberglassed it completely closed. The transom looks so much better. I had the work done at Youngs Fiberglass in Marmora NJ. They did a great job couldn’t be more happy with the work.
 

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Stephnic said:
LBass I have a 98 Islander that had no swelling at all. We took the engines off to replace the bang strip and the entire transom was delaminated. after cutting it open the wood was very wet. We fiberglassed it completely closed. The transom looks so much better. I had the work done at Youngs Fiberglass in Marmora NJ. They did a great job couldn’t be more happy with the work.
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That job looks great, I will never understand why Grady would choose to cap rather than glass it. It's not like they would have to hire someone to do it.
 
Stephnic said:
LBass I have a 98 Islander that had no swelling at all. We took the engines off to replace the bang strip and the entire transom was delaminated. after cutting it open the wood was very wet. We fiberglassed it completely closed. The transom looks so much better. I had the work done at Youngs Fiberglass in Marmora NJ. They did a great job couldn’t be more happy with the work.
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Thanks for the feedback!
 
I'll throw in a counter argument here for perspective...

If you really like a 360 and think you want one for 10 years or so then you could consider getting a deal on that one with the questionable transom(assuming the rest of the boat is sweet) and replace the transom with Coosa board and glass it over and it will never need another transom...and its resale value will be way better in the future too.

You will know what you have vs any other boat that may be hiding a future transom problem

You will have a better 360. maybe repower with a pair of 425s...
Oh the decisions in boating..... ;)
 
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"maybe repower with a pair of 425s " "...Oh wouldn't that be lovely..." After all - it's only money!

I'm going to do my transom with Coosa in the fall. There's nothing scary about it right now, but I can see where the cap is less than perfect, and I'd like to get ahead of that problem. What you said about "better" rings true Skunk!
 
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wrxhoon said:
I would move on if I was you.
Did you check this one in FL? https://www.boattrader.com/boat/2010-grady-white-360-express-7352346/
I know it's more expensive but later model same engines with lower hours and the big one NO BOTTOM paint lift kept. If kept on a lift all its life that's the boat to buy.

Good luck in your search, it should a buyers market, if you are not in a hurry i'm sure you will find the right boat.
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Been working with the broker on this one, spoke to a mechanic today. This boat is in the shop getting the trans on replaced as we speak!!! Apparently it had a contract on it and the buyer walked due to moisture in the transom and a bit of swelling cause the bang strip was debonded...of course the broker never mentioned that bit of info....
 
Sooooooo you may be getting a new boat?

Here is my replacement of the transom cap.

Transom cap (bang plate) replacement

waiting for warmer weather and perfect time to pull the bang plate. Never thought it would have been this bad. 2005 seafarer with 420 hours. I’ll post pic of also my dads 07 with 200 hours. Crazy. Wide open for water to go in.
www.greatgrady.com www.greatgrady.com

As you can see it’s beneficial to mount motors on a spacer so to speak to keep from crushing the plate. I’m sure marina replacing the transom will seal the top and not rely on the cap sealing it.
 
Summertop511 said:
Sooooooo you may be getting a new boat?

Here is my replacement of the transom cap.

Transom cap (bang plate) replacement

waiting for warmer weather and perfect time to pull the bang plate. Never thought it would have been this bad. 2005 seafarer with 420 hours. I’ll post pic of also my dads 07 with 200 hours. Crazy. Wide open for water to go in.
www.greatgrady.com www.greatgrady.com

As you can see it’s beneficial to mount motors on a spacer so to speak to keep from crushing the plate. I’m sure marina replacing the transom will seal the top and not rely on the cap sealing it.
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Nicely done! Thanks for the feedback....
 
LBass said:
Nicely done! Thanks for the feedback....
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LBASS
was reading your post as i'm dealing with the same issue. How did you make out ? did you buy the boat and replace the transom? cost?
 
When does gw address this issue? Seems like a boat builder 101 problem that should have been addressed by now.
 
I had a transom swell on my 93 226 when I bought it. Ground transom glass away from the outside, and found the plywood was in perfectly sound condition, only very damp. I ground away the area where the engine bolts on, since that was the problem, and left it to dry for several months. Re glassed, and a rough coat of gel to seal it up. Added an aluminum bracket/ brace and installed with 5200 and bolts, and it looks like a million bucks now.

There is a difference between being wet and rotten, but it can be tough to tell. I got lucky. A trick to use if it is wet and not rotten is to drill a pattern of diagonal holes into the transom from the inside and stop at the exterior glass. Let dry for a looong time. Heat helps. Then just fill the holes. Diagonal downward sloped holes work best to fill with resin. make sure to also seal the top of the transom as well.

Saves you from a really huge job of wood replacement if the wood is still sound. A few drilled exploratory holes from the inside can assess this easily. Feel how fast the drill goes through the plywood, as well as the wod dust that comes out. Drill goes through easily, rotten. Drill dust is dark and mushy, rotten. Drill dust is light and feels damn to the touch, perhaps just wet and able to be dried.

Dust is light colored and dry? Seal that hole up again and go boating!
 
And in the end you would be wise to upgrade that area on any future purchase. Its gonna need it at some point anyway :rolleyes:
 
I would inspect the brass drain holes and replace if you buy it as is. Swelling like that likely split or popped the ends off and exposing some wood if it was not chaulked up enough. Buy the flanging tool and do it yourself, very easy.$30 tool + $8 a piece for brass

It is my belief this type swelling is worse in freezing climates where it expands even more over winter. For sure close it up to get many more years hopefully or fix it right.

Always something going on with a used boat.
 
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