Motor well drain tube

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,520
Reaction score
1,417
Points
113
Location
NYC
My guess is neither. To some extent, it depends on how the tube is mechanically held in place. I probably would use a good adhesive rated for under the water line (even though your tube should be above). Adhesives like 5200 are not really meant for fittings that can flex which can create cracks.5200 and to an extent 4200 also will make future removal of the tube difficult
 
  • Like
Reactions: Greatty

DennisG01

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Sep 1, 2013
Messages
7,153
Reaction score
1,326
Points
113
Location
Allentown, PA & Friendship, ME
Model
Offshore
I would use, and have used, Lifseal. 4200/5200 will actually flex plenty enough for this application, but they are more of an adhesive than a sealant. They'll seal just fine but as Seasick mentioned, will make removal much harder.

Sand the wood core to expose fresh wood and then saturate that a few times - just keeping going till the wood stays shiny after about 10 minutes - with epoxy. Watch for drips/heavy spots on the bottom of the hole and sop them up before they dry so you don't have to come back and grind them away to get the tube to fit. Once dry, give it a very light sanding with some water and dry it. Then use your Lifeseal (or whatever) and fully coat the hole with your finger before doing your final sealing/installing.

Personally.. I like using the 2-piece plastic ones from TH Marine. Brass doesn't last forever, either, in this application and the plastic ones are much easier to install/remove.
 

JJF

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2021
Messages
438
Reaction score
131
Points
43
Location
Gloucester, MA
Model
Canyon 306
3M 4000 is sealant only, so you may want to use it.
 

wbdenamur

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2011
Messages
96
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Panama City Beach,FL
I would use, and have used, Lifseal. 4200/5200 will actually flex plenty enough for this application, but they are more of an adhesive than a sealant. They'll seal just fine but as Seasick mentioned, will make removal much harder.

Sand the wood core to expose fresh wood and then saturate that a few times - just keeping going till the wood stays shiny after about 10 minutes - with epoxy. Watch for drips/heavy spots on the bottom of the hole and sop them up before they dry so you don't have to come back and grind them away to get the tube to fit. Once dry, give it a very light sanding with some water and dry it. Then use your Lifeseal (or whatever) and fully coat the hole with your finger before doing your final sealing/installing.

Personally.. I like using the 2-piece plastic ones from TH Marine. Brass doesn't last forever, either, in this application and the plastic ones are much easier to install/remove.
I actually thought about using the plastic but thought it would get brittle and crack over time.
 

Fishtales

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
7,993
Reaction score
1,275
Points
113
X2 on the life seal. I've used it in other applications and it has held up great.
 

DennisG01

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Sep 1, 2013
Messages
7,153
Reaction score
1,326
Points
113
Location
Allentown, PA & Friendship, ME
Model
Offshore
I actually thought about using the plastic but thought it would get brittle and crack over time.
Eventually, sure. But the brass will get thin and eaten away over time, too. The plastic should easily last at least 10 years, though... and as I mentioned... it's much easier to replace.