2016 GulfStream 232 windless install

[GH02050]

I know this has been discussed here before. In my defense, I did use the search feature and read the other threads before deciding to post this.

I’d like to add a Windless set up to my new to me 2016 Gulfstream 232. I’m not sure which manufacturer to go with. I like the above deck design of the Maxwell Horizontal Windless just because the installation seems like it would be easier, but I have no real experience with these having never owned one.

I plan to install and wire it myself and will obviously be adhering to the manufacturers specs.

Does any prewiring my exist from the factory even though this option was not included? Also, wondering If I need a new anchor hatch to make this work?

Would welcome any advice.

 

[DennisG01]

Sounds like a fun project!

I can't answer the pre-wired question - but it should be easy enough to look for the wires.

You probably saw a number of threads about shoring up the anchor hatch so it doesn't get ripped off - so no need to go into that detail, correct?

Windlass brands (most of them) all have horizontal and vertical options. Aesthetics is one determining factor - but functionally, the amount of "drop" is the first factor to consider. Measure the drop you have and compare that to the specs for a particular windlass model.

 

[Ekea]

my current boat is my first with a windlass. id prefer that it was a flush or hidden mount just for visibility. im not short (6'0"), but between it being on the pulpit and being a top mount, its quite prominent. id really like to ditch the pulpit and go to a hidden windlass.

 

[GH02050]

my current boat has is my first with a windlass. id prefer that it was a flush or hidden mount just for visibility. im not short (6'0"), but between it being on the pulpit and being a top mount, its quite prominent. id really like to ditch the pulpit and go to a hidden windlass.

That's something I didn't actually consider. I appreciate you sharing this. I'm still in the early learning & planning stages of this project. Every nugget of knowledge helps.

 

[Morganzer]

I’m working on the same project on my 2008 Gulfstream. On my boat there are red and black #6 wires run from the anchor locker to the console. Both ends are labeled. The forward wires can be seen when I stick my head in the locker, they’re tucked up in the top of the locker. The aft end of the wires I found behind an access port at the drivers feet. I haven’t found any coming from the battery forward.

Since this will be my first windlass I don’t have any input on brand or whether horizontal or verticals are better. Below is what I think after researching primarily on this forum. I’ve considered 3 types of installs. There are pics of all 3 in different threads.

The first is mounting it on the hatch cover. That requires reinforcing the cover, reinforcing where the hinges attach and maybe screwing the hatch down in place. With this method the windlass drops the rode in the deepest, optimum part of the locker. If you screw the hatch cover down in place you don’t have an access topside to sort out chain snafus unless you cut an access in the cover next to the windlass. If you don’t screw it down, you can still open the hatch but you might have to put in another latch to ensure the hatch stays closed when the windlass is in use.

The second is mount the windlass at the aft end of the bowsprit. I decided against this because the rode drops down into the anchor locker forward of the deepest part and I had concerns about stacking problems from the rode sliding down into the deeper part. I also didn’t like cutting a big hole in the bowsprit. It does leave the locker lid untouched though. It’s probably the simplest and cheapest install.

The third option is what I’ve decided to do. That is do a stock Grady install with the premade windlass mount panel and separate access hatch. When my dealer contacted Grady he was told the part numbers but that those pieces for my boat were no longer available. I then walked the docks and measured numerous model years of Gulfstreams and found that the hatch size doesn’t seem to have changed and even the brand new Gstream on the dealer floor had the same dimensions for the locker and hatch as my 2008. I had my dealer order the parts using 2024 parts numbers. Fingers crossed that they fit. Cost is just under $750. Haven’t heard how long it’ll take to get them.

 

[GH02050]

I appreciate you sharing this. I have also been walking my marina a looking at how other GW's Windless are set up. I have not decided how go about this yet, or which manufacturer to use, but I'm inclined to re-enforce the hatch on both the latch and hinge side without bolting it shut. I suppose even if I did permanently bolt the lid down I can still access the rode from the cabin access. I don't think I want to cut an access plate into the exiting latch. I'd love to see the results of your project, especially if you get there before I do. Who knows, you may inspire me to but the new split hatch. I have no plans to do this until the end of the season.

 

[Morganzer]

I’m finally ready to start my windlass install. It was quite an ordeal to get the factory parts, but I have them now. What I have is the split hatch that was ordered using 2024 Gulfstream part numbers. They fit exactly.

I know most folks recommend a dedicated power wire run directly from the battery, protected by a fuse or circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible. For the length of run I have, round trip, Lewmar recommends #6 wire.

My boat has a #2 wire directly from the battery switch and through a 50 A main breaker and the other end of that wire terminates under the dashboard, connecting to a buss with 4 terminals. Since this is such a large supply cable I’m considering using #6 to connect from the 4 terminal buss to a 35A breaker and then #6 from there forward to the contactor and then the windlass. The windlass has #12 coming out of it. Comments anyone? It doesn’t seem to me that would be a problem since the existing wire from the battery is so large?

The other question I have for the crowd is how much of the stock anchor locker “liner /shroud” I should remove? I’m inclined to remove it all to allow greater access to the anchor locker. I think the “shroud” (couldn’t think of a better word) is there because there wasn’t a windlass on the boat originally? I’ll try to attach a photo to illustrate.

Where my finger is pointing has to be cut out so there isn’t any interference when the chain/rode is going in or out

 

[DennisG01]

Morganzer... yes, if your calculations show that 6g is fine for the rount trip (+ & -) then although it "feels" weird to then connect to 12g, it's fine. The windlass can use 12g because it's "round trip" from where IT get's it's power is only a few feet. It doesn't care how far away the batteries are - from it's persepctive the 6g/12g junction is the power supply.

I think you're referring to the vertical section of that shroud? From what I can see, there is no structural concern in that area. Just stay away from inside/outside corners. If you keep your cut a good 1/2" or show away from them, you'll be fine.

Truthfully, though, you can take quite a lot of that out. You must have an anchor roller already? The reason I ask is because those two horizontal "pad" areas to port/stbd appear to be meant to hold chocks to hold a fluke anchor. You COULD just run a mark about an inch or so below the top edge - run the mark all the way around the perimteter - and cut that whole thing out. Dip your cut line just a bit as it passes around the gutter drain for good measure.