Transom Construction

'84_241_Offshore

'84_241_Offshore

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When did Grady start installing the aluminum piece on top of the transom that is tied into the stringers and runs from 1 lifting eye to the other?
 
From some on-line research, not personal knowledge, it was in 1998, at the transition to the more rot-resistant "Greenwood."
 
My 1997 Islander has the aluminum U-channel in the transom. Not visible from inside the hull. The other photo is someone else boat 2022 Freedom 275. You can ask GW Customer Service.

Star corner 1.jpeg Aluminum bracket 2022 Freedom 275.jpeg
 
Transom laminates design from GW. I'm planning to do the transom on my 1997 Islander next year. It will be double 3/4" Coosa board. Done from the inside. I'll open a new thread next year when I start.

Screenshot 2025-10-20 at 8.54.39 PM.png
 

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I think a very long time. Started as a cosmetic piece to cover the hull liner to hull joint. Too lazy or cost prohibitive to glass it over, so cover it up.
It later moved from aluminum to a plastic or phenolic material, then to a larger stainless steel piece on today's boats.
 
When the shipyard glued on the SS profile as new bang cap they told me that there is a metal "thing" inside the transom, but it's not visible, so not the one in the diagram above. More likely the piece shown on the Photos of the 2022 275 Freedom
I first thought that ex owner did a repair and installed it, but now i start to believe that its the above reinforcement what unfortunately does not do it's job. When someone repair my transom i will discover what this mystery part is and if it's the same this tread is about.
Chris
 
We are talking about two different things.

The “bang cap” is non-structural trim to seal the top transom edge.

The other is the structural aluminum imbedded inside the transom. This runs the width of the transom and includes mounting for the tie down rings. Look at photos in post #3.
 
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Temporary hack to keep the transom top from flexing.
IMG_1445.jpeg
 
I was thinking of doing something like the in the bilge area and tie it to the stringer(s).
 
You have the u-channel. Yes I have the stepped “Euro Transom”.
 
'84_241_Offshore said:
I was thinking of doing something like the in the bilge area and tie it to the stringer(s).
Click to expand...
Your stringers are shot along with the transom. The reason you have movement in the transom is the stringers are wet and separated from the transom. The two outer stringers carry most of the load. These are impossible to get to. They run to the left and right side of the battery and forward to the main fuel tank bulkhead.

You may be able to install a rod with a turnbuckle from the battery compartment thru the transom. Whatever you do it’s not a fix just a way to buy some time and maybe not have the transom tear out before you can have transom and stringers rebuilt.

The area fiberglass shop looked at mine a few years ago. He acknowledged the problem but said it was too early to replace. Too hard to get them apart!
 
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'84_241_Offshore said:
Looks like a stepped hull to me,
Click to expand...
The GW EuroTransom is equivalent to a bracket that has a swim platform over it.


AI overview: A euro transom is a boat's stern design that features a closed, integrated transom with a taller bulkhead separating the engines from the main deck, which extends the boat's running surface and provides a sleek look. It differs from a bracket transom, which mounts an outboard engine on a separate, external bracket bolted to the hull's stern.This integrated design often results in more interior space and is common on modern boats.

Stepped hull: In a few words, a stepped hull means improved performance. Why? The short answer, a stepped hull reduces wet surfaces and lowers drag. The benefits of less drag equal more speed with less horsepower or more fuel efficiency with the same horsepower.
Screenshot 2025-11-01 at 8.04.08 AM.png
 
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What I'm referring to is the fact that the hull/keel doesn't go all the way to the transom...that's what I meant by stepped hull.
 
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