I have just added seakkeeper tide to my 306. Has anyone else done this, and if so could you share your TCC settings? Also comments on how you use the system!
Canyon 306 and seakeeper ride
- Thread starter GrumpyGrandpa
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I don't have your boat but I do have Ride 450 on a 26 foot hull. Since I bought the boat used, I sailed the first season and a half with whatever had been programmed. My boat was prone to water spray over the bow when cruising in choppy but not terrible seas. Late this season I adjusted the parameters to keep the bow a few degrees higher than had been set and the spray decreased greatly. The bow before the change was slightly stuffing the bow and causing the spray over the deck. I am not sure that I have he settings optimal but I am and learning. I also did an experiment recently regarding WOT. The WOT and top speed that was achieved during sea trials was higher ( by a lot). After thinking about what could be the reason, I had the thought that may be the Ride system was slowing the boat at WOT so I did a test by turning off the system and testing WOT. The top end revs increase by about two to three hundred revs. It wasn't really good seas to do an accurate test but I was pretty sure the Ride system was holding the boat back.
I rarely if ever run at WOT nor so cruise at the speeds the hull can do. My thought about WOT was that the programming may be set to disable the Ride System above a set SOG. It's not a big deal for me.
I don't have my TCC data handy but if you think it might help, I can see what is currently programmed when I get to the boat.
Went to register the system and realized it was the 525 instead of the 600, so now it has to be changed! Not worried about the parameters right now! Worried about damage being done while removing the transom adhesive!
As long as you didn't use something like 3M5200 (which is completely the wrong product for applications like this) you'll be fine. If you did, you can try to get some strong fishing line in there like a rope saw. Heat can help - as long as you don't damage the Ride, of course. While I've never needed to use it, some have had success with Marine Formula Debond - but check the chemicals to make sure they won't damage the Ride. But even at that, you've got to get the chemical between the Ride and hull. Maybe some sharpened putty knives tapped in with a hammer?
Sardinia306Canyon
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First i agree with your post regarding what to use to separate things bonded together using PU adhesive.
My experience with PU adhesives and sealants are the same, cutting it is the only way to separate two parts.
What also may work is the stainless wires body shops use to remove with same/similar glue bonded windshields.
The SK Ride install videos i saw showed that something like 5200 or a similar glue was used.
Why do you think that 5200 is the wrong glue?
Chris
Google "rope saw" - that's what some of us over here call what you're talking about regarding the windshields
Good/fair question, Chris. Of course, this is my opinion, but it's one I strongly agree and have abided by working on boats for over 30 years. So far, this has never let me down.
5200 is super glue. It is probably the most widely (wrongly) recommended product on the net and by manufacturers, as well. It actually has a higher tensile/bond strength than the gelcoat to fiberglass has (not good!). I don't know if it's a lack of understanding of the product by manufacturers... or just them covering their butt to make installation easy with no regard for the future. As far as on the internet goes... well, it's easy to recommended a product to someone else even though a person may have no experience or knowledge of a product... and then someone else does the same... and then someone else....
But in 99% of applications, this is not what we want. It should NEVER be used in an area where it's possible that you may need to take it apart (case in point of this thread). In applications like this, the fastening method is primarily mechanical (screws) - we really only need to add sealant. There is no need for super glue - however a medium strength adhesive sealant is a fine option (LifeCaulk or 3M4200 or similar) to add some extra piece of mind and reinforce the screws to help to keep them from loosening over time.
It's good stuff - it's excellent for it's intended purpose - it's just that it's purposes are extremely limited.
Sardinia306Canyon
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My reply was regarding Seakeeper Ride installation and i made miles of PU seals and bonding using Sika or 3M so i know well how to apply, where to apply and where not.
This is what Seakeeper writes about installing the Seakeeper Ride
https://manuals.seakeeper.com/ride/...unt-wedge-pack/mount-wedge-pack-introduction/
From what i understand the SK Ride is glued to the hull and has 3 screws to keep it in place when glueing it on.
I was wrong, approved glues are MMA not PU, i was wrong with that.
Chris
Oh, wow. I had no idea the install is relying totally on the adhesive. Yeah, that kinda sucks that they designed it that way. But... it is what it is and that changes things and what I wrote above is pretty much a moot point.
HOWEVER... I did see some good news in the installation directions - thanks for linking that, Chris. But before I get to that... to your point about PU... I only quickly scanned the directions, but there IS mention of using 5200 along with the other listed adhesives. In the literature, it's mentioned just above the list of recommended adhesives.
Back to the positive thing... I saw that the plate has 3 small stand-offs. That's GOOD! It means there's probably space to get the rope saw in there... or maybe a recip saw.
HOWEVER... I did see some good news in the installation directions - thanks for linking that, Chris. But before I get to that... to your point about PU... I only quickly scanned the directions, but there IS mention of using 5200 along with the other listed adhesives. In the literature, it's mentioned just above the list of recommended adhesives.
Back to the positive thing... I saw that the plate has 3 small stand-offs. That's GOOD! It means there's probably space to get the rope saw in there... or maybe a recip saw.
Sardinia306Canyon
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Yep.
I used and studied SIKA and 5200 quite well and there is a certain thickness what provides most strength and it's about the thickness of a M6 washer.
If high strength is needed some people just insert a few washers between the two surfaces to get the perfect adhesive thickness, SK solves that with the built in stand-offs or spacers to get correct thickness and allow to tread or rope saw cut in between if the stand-offs are plastic. Thats the problem with washers as the would block a rope saw but in most cases when they are used it's on parts what will not be removed.
Heating up one of the surfaces helps to soften PU adhesive but not always doable.
Chris