Recent content by Hookup1

A ProMariner ProSport HD 2-bank is $180. You can also install a Noco 2-bank for around $120. Both chargers ship with cables that make it easy to install. Not sure but both may have 120vac power plugs. Mount in a reasonably dry area near the batteries (within cable lengths. Also nice to be able...

Think about he practical aspects of saving your life on a small boat with an inexperienced crew. On my boat I probably have one inexperienced person on board (my wife). I'll take care of grabbing the EPIRB and deploying - only takes seconds. Hopefully the other person can grab life jackets and...

I refinished my complete tower, rocket launcher and enclosure awning rails Summer '22. All parts removed and sandblasted. It's all about the prep and materials. Edge seal important - that's where it will pop first. Awlgrip etch primer, Awlgrip Primer and AwlGrip topcoat. Three Winters in FL...

GW hatches are junk. I think they use sand from the parking lot mixed with resin as a filler. It's hard and brittle. I made molds for my anchor locker and aft storage box and build new hatches with Coosa board. The aft storage box is topped with Starboard cutting board.

Probably coming in from the dock. Hose it down regularly. I also put a designated boat towel where people hard to wipe shoes as they get on.

Don't worry it's a standard size. The problem with standards is that there are so many different ones to choose from! I went thru this two years ago when I wanted to replace my scupper valves. They vary slightly in diameter and hole placement. Event though they have 4 holes they won't line up...

My gunnel stress crack are spider cracks at point of impact on dock. Yours may be the same. Your long stress cracks look like stress under heavy sea conditions. Flexing of the hull and weight of hardtop if you have one. Hard to tell from closeup photos.

These guys figured it out!

My question is "Do you have any way to access the back of that fitting to change it?". I know on my boat it is accessible thru a hatch but impossible to work on.

It's not that complicated. Hopefully someone who owns the same boat can give you some insight. Maybe you can get a camera behind it for a picture. I know what you are looking for.

Pull the switch panel. The switches have 12 volt positive jumpers across the rows. You may have a jumper off - that would explain several going out at once. This is a photo of my new panel. Those red wires are jumpers. If you don't see a problem get a voltmeter and test them.

On my 268 Islander it’s inside the cabin next to the door port side. You can access it without stepping inside the cabin.

I have not sanded out diamond non-skid gelcoat. I did sand the hardtop non-skid gelcoat smooth before refinishing. Wasn't that difficult. Hardtop had severe edge chipping and other "blisters". They were ground out to the substrate, epoxy primed, epoxy fairing compound and carefully sanded smooth...

I have not refinished my cockpit non-skid yet. Been struggling with the idea of sanding out the diamond non-skid. My friend with the 56' F&S has been dealing with failing teak cockpit for past few seasons (boards coming loose and re-gluing). He has talked to several owners and installers about...

I don't like that damage. Looks like you hit something and it punched thru. Or it was a factory defect on the fiberglass layup. This should be the strongest part of the boat along with the keel. The strakes may be hollow. I would try to get inside and repair from both sides (inside first) if...