Recent content by Ralph163

Absolutely, but I would like a way to pump the water out if it's high. Either way, an alarm goes in.

I was looking at the Rule 2000 GPH as my backup. So far, I had the boat 1.5 years. Haven't serviced the gen. Replaced a starter and a relay myself. Yard just did the oil change. This year I will probably try and crawl behind and look at servicing, air filter, impeller, etc. I am debating...

It's a pretty tricky run. Not as simple as going through a single stringer, it's zig zag and needs to pass through a compartment or two. Of course I would seal any holes I drill, especially through a structural element.

Yes. I have installed secondary bilge pumps before. I mount the pump low, and the switch 3 inches higher. I know some people like to mount the pump higher as well, believing that keeping it dry preserves it. But that's not my issue. I need to find a location to mount the pump. Where the...

Yes, that's exactly what I need to do. I just can't find the room, especially to route the thru-hull line. I spend nights offshore. So I really need the backup pump.

Has anyone added a second bilge pump in the stern? Seems a bit tight. Also, finding somewhere to route a new hose to a thru-hull fitting also seems challenging. I really would like to have a second "high water" bilge pump in the stern.

Yes, that's is where I am at right now. Separate breaker for 120v PSU. I will use an on/off/on selector switch to choose between the 12v and the 120v options. This way I can't accidentally have the breakers for both on at the same time. Seems like the easiest solution for my concerns regarding...

Yes, I would be curious to find another relay rated for continuous duty. Or a relay that "flips" a selector switch, I forget what those are called (as opposed to a relay that provides continuous power to the "trigger" when activated) EDIT: Okay, I remember, it's called a continuous duty...

Yes. The same setup as mine. I even purchased the same relay. What concerns me is the heat generated by the "trigger" coil on the relay. The "trigger" is activated when 120v is supplied to the PSU (when I am on shore power) and provides 12v to the trigger. When I bench tested the system, the...

Looking for some input. Converting the 12v fridge on my 2006 Marlin to dual 12v/120v. Using a relay, it will switch over to 120v when I am connected to shore power and then automatically goes to 12v when shore power is disconnected. I am using a 10a 12v power supply (PU) and a 12v 30a relay...

It's the same parent company. lol The way I understand it now is, wet (waterproof) chargers are not made for a steady draw. They are meant to charge, not act as a power supply. Some refer to them as "bass boat chargers". Being waterproof, they can be left in the open deck and do not have an...

So I spoke to another tech for confirmation. The Guest ChargePro chargers are specifically NOT designed to handle a steady draw (like a fridge) they CAN handle an intermittent draw (like a bilge pump). In other words, they are NOT meant to act as a power supply, that will throw them into a...

I had to replace the old Guest 2722-B charger on my 2006 Grady Marlin. So I replaced it with a Guest 2740A 4 bank charger. When I would return to the boat, I noticed the house batteries were dead, the charger was in a standby mode and not charging. I called Guest and told them the charger wasn't...

Actually, in this location it was easy. Came out right into the overhead electronics box. Then went down to pipe into the dash e electronics box. Just be careful NOT to kink the wire. Don't ask me how I know! lol

So, I wound up moving the radome back, on top of the hump so I could fit my lights. I used a 6 deg wedge plate. Still need to clean up some old holes, remove a clamshell and adjust the lights. I was careful to set the lights back far enough so light won't reflect of by bow.