Recent content by Vlabruzzo

I've wanted to do this but can't bring my self to do it. My fuel tank is in the forward hold. If I was content on keeping my boat I would make drain along rim of deck and my the entire panel hinged and latched. I only plan to keep the boat till the spring so I dont want to invest the time.

Won't argue those points, still not advisable to use gelcoat over epoxy.

Why do you feel poly isn't a good choice? Grady were built with poly. Also, gel coat isn't best on top of epoxy from what I understand.

Didnt think it was bronze. Could be. Ill be good if it is. All the thru hulls are plastic. This one is cracked so I need to replace

86 tournament 225. Connects the bow anchor locker to the port floor drain. Im hoping i can re use the tee because I cant find them online.

I'm replacing the hoses on my old teleflex steering. One end is the same and the new seastar hose. The end the goes to the copper is different. Its larger and goes to a flared union. Has anyone ran into this?

is there wood in the entire hull or just the transom. 1986. I want to install some new through hulls. Curious if its just fiberglass on the bottom and where the existing factory fittings are.

Mine was leaking. Badly

When did they start using the aluminum, all models?

Anyone?

I have a no spark Issue on a 1991 225 txrp. Stator and pulsar ohm out good. The manual gives a chart to test the cdi and it doesn't make any sense. If i unplug the yellow bypass wire it starts rightup. Plug it in it stalls. Occasionally it will start with the system normal. I had it running...

I use 1/2 marine ply. I sealed it with resin first.

I came across this. Has anyone done this or have info? Right now the assigned anchor locker is in the floor which is super inconvenient. Id like to add a roller too.

Did you use tinned wire?

Factory set up. My 86 tank was that way