2001 Grady 265 Express Repower Info needed

Sketchywind

Sketchywind

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Model
Express 265
One of my 2001 Yamaha HPDI LZ200’s died with over 1500 hours, so I’m seriously considering a repower for my 2001 GW 265.
I’ve read some older posts about the Suzuki DF200 being a solid choice. Mercury V6 200 might be lighter for the 2001 GW 265 scupper issue. Yamaha inline 200 could work too.
I thought about bolting on a used Z200 HPDI, but throwing on another questionable 20 year old motor doesn’t seem reliable or safe any longer.

1. What’s the best motor for repowering a 2001 GW 265 Express these days?
2. Do the scuppers need to be repositioned with either of those motors?
3. The aluminum transom plate is funky and I have some swelling of fiberglass along the top edge between the motor brackets. Any suggestions before the repower?
Thanks,
Frank
 

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I have 1000 hrs on my zuke DF200APs in 5 seasons. Only "trouble" was one weepy seal on a trim rod. I changed that myself rather than warranty service.
Scuppers are only under with 2 full tanks. With the new 4 stroke motors I really never need to fill both.
If you have not replaced the hoses to the scuppers, YOU NEED TO DO THAT. There is a post. I would also remind you that there are 4 other underwater holes in your boat.
Pull the motorwell brass tubes out and look at the transom wood. there is a post.
That aluminum cap always bends from the clamping of the motors. Its f'ing stupid.
Certainly redo the cap if you have the time while motors are off. I regret no doing that but it was "OK" and I did not have the time and weather to do it before the motors went on.


I would consider the merc 250s over the 200s since the weight is no issue

Get fly by wire. Don't be that guy....

heheh You need a new dash....
 
I’m repowering my 2006 360 express with new Yamahas. Dropping the hydraulics power assist steering and mechanical binnacle, cables and going to 100% fly by wire with joystick.

The fly by wire set up does reduce weight because the hydraulic hoses, mechanical cables, binnacle, steering and auto pilot pumps are being removed. I estimate it’s saving about 200lbs of net weight.

Remove the aluminum trim cap and inspect and repair the transom issue and install a new cap. Also inspect the transom stringer brackets for cracks, etc. inside the hull. My marina is replacing the transom cap with a composite cap that Grady now uses to eliminate corrosion issues. The aluminum cap in the pic is temporary while the new part is on order. Also, I’d inspect and perhaps replace the transom splash well drains. Your boat because of age may have leaking where the drain flange meets the gelcoat. Mine did.

I looked at Suzuki and Mercs as alternatives. The weights were similar, they were priced a little lower, but for me..finding reliable marine mechanics in my area to service them is tough. My marina is a Yamaha auth shop and gave me great pricing on the repower plus the trade on engines with 2,800 (mostly trolling) hours.

Good luck.
 
Great info!
SkunkBoat said:
I have 1000 hrs on my zuke DF200APs in 5 seasons. Only "trouble" was one weepy seal on a trim rod. I changed that myself rather than warranty service.
Scuppers are only under with 2 full tanks. With the new 4 stroke motors I really never need to fill both.
If you have not replaced the hoses to the scuppers, YOU NEED TO DO THAT. There is a post. I would also remind you that there are 4 other underwater holes in your boat.
Pull the motorwell brass tubes out and look at the transom wood. there is a post.
That aluminum cap always bends from the clamping of the motors. Its f'ing stupid.
Certainly redo the cap if you have the time while motors are off. I regret no doing that but it was "OK" and I did not have the time and weather to do it before the motors went on.


I would consider the merc 250s over the 200s since the weight is no issue

Get fly by wire. Don't be that guy....

heheh You need a new dash....
Click to expand...
I’ve been following your “skunk boat” posts since 2015 when I bought my 2001 GW265 from Delaware to San Francisco. Thanks for all the good advice these years!
Good to hear the Zukes have been trouble free for 5 years. I have never run both tanks full, so the scuppers should be ok.
I’ll definitely have the shop replace those scupper hoses and check the other thru hole hose connections.
I had corroded and leaking brass tubes in the splash well. In a rookie move, I removed them in 2018, sealed inner surface with 3m 5200 and used PVC tubing instead of flaring a brass tube. Seem to be holding up pretty good, but brass is probably the better solution.
My aluminum cap needs to go and looking at fiberglass cap before new motors. I’m worried that the transom is a bit wet and will be an issue whenever I decide to sell. New buyers seem to really focus on the GW transom issue.
The Mercury V6 200/225 specs at 475# and V8 250 527#, comparably lighter than the Zukes. Will consider Mercury, but I have heard issues with all that electrical technology.
I did a mod to my Simrad dash and made a “urban” deterrent cover. We have a lot of street pirates in SF. That old aluminum dash has seen some serious action off the Delaware coast with the previous owner!
 

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Express 360 Finally said:
I’m repowering my 2006 360 express with new Yamahas. Dropping the hydraulics power assist steering and mechanical binnacle, cables and going to 100% fly by wire with joystick.

The fly by wire set up does reduce weight because the hydraulic hoses, mechanical cables, binnacle, steering and auto pilot pumps are being removed. I estimate it’s saving about 200lbs of net weight.

Remove the aluminum trim cap and inspect and repair the transom issue and install a new cap. Also inspect the transom stringer brackets for cracks, etc. inside the hull. My marina is replacing the transom cap with a composite cap that Grady now uses to eliminate corrosion issues. The aluminum cap in the pic is temporary while the new part is on order. Also, I’d inspect and perhaps replace the transom splash well drains. Your boat because of age may have leaking where the drain flange meets the gelcoat. Mine did.

I looked at Suzuki and Mercs as alternatives. The weights were similar, they were priced a little lower, but for me..finding reliable marine mechanics in my area to service them is tough. My marina is a Yamaha auth shop and gave me great pricing on the repower plus the trade on engines with 2,800 (mostly trolling) hours.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks for info!
I found the old brass splash well tubes were leaking into my transom. In a 2018 haul out, I removed the brass tubes and caulked the inners with 3M 5200 and sleeved with PVC tubes. Probably a rookie move with PVC, but I have brass tubes to replace them. I coated the inners with so much 5200, nothing is going to get in there.
Since my GW 265 is wet slipped and I don't have a trailer, I’m limited on a few motor shops with a haul out lift. I got a quote of $58K out the door for twin DF200 APX without the extra fiberglass work. I weighed the option of bolting on another old HPDI, but I’m done worrying about if I can make back to my slip.
 
I think my first choice would also be Suzuki and then second would be Mercury. The Suzuki DF200AP with the drive by wire shifting would likely be my choice, if I was in your shoes. They have the drive by wire controls, they come with a standard 5 year warranty along with the Mercury... as opposed to the Yamaha which only comes with a standard 3 year warranty. The Suzuki will likely be the cheapest option, coming in at around $15k a piece, or sometimes they can be found for less. The Mercury 200 FourStroke series is slightly lighter in weight at 475 lbs vs the Suzuki at 531 lbs a piece, and it's a v6 vs the Suzuki which is an inline 4, but the Mercury has an MSRP of closer to $20k a piece. Which going with the Suzuki's could potentially save you over $10k. Yamaha's are going to be the most expensive option as their F200 with mechanical shifting starts at $22k and then their F200 with the digital controls is $25k+ a piece. I'd go check with your local dealerships, see which ones have a good reputation/reviews, check pricing, availability and so forth... but I'd go with Suzuki and potentially save yourself $10k-$20k, if not more.
 
Mustang65fbk said:
I think my first choice would also be Suzuki and then second would be Mercury. The Suzuki DF200AP with the drive by wire shifting would likely be my choice, if I was in your shoes. They have the drive by wire controls, they come with a standard 5 year warranty along with the Mercury... as opposed to the Yamaha which only comes with a standard 3 year warranty. The Suzuki will likely be the cheapest option, coming in at around $15k a piece, or sometimes they can be found for less. The Mercury 200 FourStroke series is slightly lighter in weight at 475 lbs vs the Suzuki at 531 lbs a piece, and it's a v6 vs the Suzuki which is an inline 4, but the Mercury has an MSRP of closer to $20k a piece. Which going with the Suzuki's could potentially save you over $10k. Yamaha's are going to be the most expensive option as their F200 with mechanical shifting starts at $22k and then their F200 with the digital controls is $25k+ a piece. I'd go check with your local dealerships, see which ones have a good reputation/reviews, check pricing, availability and so forth... but I'd go with Suzuki and potentially save yourself $10k-$20k, if not more.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I was quoted $58k for twin DF200APX out the door at a local shop. Another shop quoted the Mercury V6 225HP with DTS around $55k-$58k. Suzuki only supported by a few dealers here in SF Bay Area, especially with haul out capabilities since my GW 265 is wet slipped 24/7. The Mercury 475# weight for a V6225HP may help the lower scupper issue on my 2001 model. After dumping over $10k into those HPDI’s this year, I’m kicking myself for trying to keep those 24 year old motors on the water vs repowering earlier. Good, but expensive lesson learned in boat ownership.
 
Sketchywind said:
Thanks! I was quoted $58k for twin DF200APX out the door at a local shop. Another shop quoted the Mercury V6 225HP with DTS around $55k-$58k. Suzuki only supported by a few dealers here in SF Bay Area, especially with haul out capabilities since my GW 265 is wet slipped 24/7. The Mercury 475# weight for a V6225HP may help the lower scupper issue on my 2001 model. After dumping over $10k into those HPDI’s this year, I’m kicking myself for trying to keep those 24 year old motors on the water vs repowering earlier. Good, but expensive lesson learned in boat ownership.
Click to expand...

$58k seems rather insane. You can find those outboards elsewhere throughout the country for less than $15k a piece. There's a place in El Cajon, CA called Sunset Marine that has the motors for sale for $23k a piece. Not sure if that's an option for you or how close it would be, but $46k for the motors, I can't imagine rigging and installation would cost another $12k, but I don't know. Could also be something where you might see if you can order the outboards and have them shipped to a local dealership for less and then have them install the outboards. Or shoot, I imagine several guys on here have likely installed and rigged up their own outboards before. Either of those options again might save you $20k-$30k.

2026 Suzuki Marine DF200APXW

dealerInsight
www.sunsetmarine.com www.sunsetmarine.com
 
I thought $58k seemed steep but I got mine 5 years ago. Mine were $40k installed including $2500 NJ sales tax. That included hauling boat from driveway, launching and testing, 1/4" starboard to mount new gauges (I later moved and improved them...) The breakdown was 30k for two motors, 7500 for labor and misc...
 
Mustang65fbk said:
$58k seems rather insane. You can find those outboards elsewhere throughout the country for less than $15k a piece. There's a place in El Cajon, CA called Sunset Marine that has the motors for sale for $23k a piece. Not sure if that's an option for you or how close it would be, but $46k for the motors, I can't imagine rigging and installation would cost another $12k, but I don't know. Could also be something where you might see if you can order the outboards and have them shipped to a local dealership for less and then have them install the outboards. Or shoot, I imagine several guys on here have likely installed and rigged up their own outboards before. Either of those options again might save you $20k-$30k.

Click to expand...
Sketchywind said:
Thanks! I was quoted $58k for twin DF200APX out the door at a local shop. Another shop quoted the Mercury V6 225HP with DTS around $55k-$58k. Suzuki only supported by a few dealers here in SF Bay Area, especially with haul out capabilities since my GW 265 is wet slipped 24/7. The Mercury 475# weight for a V6225HP may help the lower scupper issue on my 2001 model. After dumping over $10k into those HPDI’s this year, I’m kicking myself for trying to keep those 24 year old motors on the water vs repowering earlier. Good, but expensive lesson learned in boat ownership.
Click to expand...
 
SkunkBoat said:
I thought $58k seemed steep but I got mine 5 years ago. Mine were $40k installed including $2500 NJ sales tax. That included hauling boat from driveway, launching and testing, 1/4" starboard to mount new gauges (I later moved and improved them...) The breakdown was 30k for two motors, 7500 for labor and misc...
Click to expand...

Yes, all those unknown cost factors like labor haul out and extra parts add up. I’m still looking for a used HPDI to keep it running for awhile. Good time to pause and reevaluate how much a repower will cost if transom is rotting, fuel tanks leaking, etc. A repower will be great, but might be opening Pandora’s box needing more repair work than it’s worth.
 
Sketchywind said:
One of my 2001 Yamaha HPDI Z200’s finally died with over 1500 hours, so I’m seriously considering a repower for my 2001 GW 265.
I’ve read some older posts about the Suzuki DF200 being a solid choice. Mercury V6 200 might be lighter for the 2001 GW265 scupper issue. Yamaha inline 200 could work too.
I thought about bolting on a used Z200 HPDI, but throwing on another questionable 20 year old motor doesn’t seem reliable or safe any longer.

1. What’s the best motor for repowering a 2001 GW 265 Express these days?
2. Do the scuppers need to be repositioned with either of those motors?
3. The aluminum transom plate is funky and I have some swelling of fiberglass along the top edge between the motor brackets. Any suggestions before the repower?
Thanks,
Frank
Click to expand...

I’m in the middle of repairing and repowering a 2001 265 Express myself, so I’ve been deep down this rabbit hole.
I decided against bolting on another used HPDI for the same reasons you mentioned, great motors in their day, but at 20+ years old it’s a gamble I wasn’t comfortable with for serious use.

I chose Yamaha 300s in twin configuration. For me the big factors were reliability, modern parts support, and long-term ownership. The 300s have plenty of real world proof behind them, aren’t massively heavier than other options, and offer strong performance that suits this hull. My goal was to build something I’d confidently run for the next 10 years, not just patch it up for now.

Suzuki DF200s are solid, and the Mercury V6 200 is appealing weight-wise for the scupper height, but once you start opening up the transom the motor choice becomes part of a much bigger structural conversation.

I lifted my scuppers, it was a no brainer. Would not leave if repowering your already going to all the effort why not do it right.

The funky aluminium transom plate and the swelling you’re seeing along the top edge is very common on these hulls.

Before repowering I :
  • Thickened the transom
  • Installed twin 75 mm knees and solid battery boards, tying everything back into the rear bulkhead
  • Rebuilt and thickened the rear transom section and re-fibreglassed it
  • Ran new stringers and glassed them all in properly
  • Relocated batteries aft and designed everything around the new load
  • Rounded, faired, and finished the transom correctly
It wasn’t cheap or quick but these are great boats, they repay you for doing it once and doing it right. If you’re already seeing fiberglass swelling and planning a repower, I’d strongly recommend fixing the structure first, then choosing the motor's, not the other way around.

Just my experience, but hopefully helpful
 

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Aussie_Boss said:
I’m in the middle of repairing and repowering a 2001 265 Express myself, so I’ve been deep down this rabbit hole.
I decided against bolting on another used HPDI for the same reasons you mentioned, great motors in their day, but at 20+ years old it’s a gamble I wasn’t comfortable with for serious use.

I chose Yamaha 300s in twin configuration. For me the big factors were reliability, modern parts support, and long-term ownership. The 300s have plenty of real world proof behind them, aren’t massively heavier than other options, and offer strong performance that suits this hull. My goal was to build something I’d confidently run for the next 10 years, not just patch it up for now.

Suzuki DF200s are solid, and the Mercury V6 200 is appealing weight-wise for the scupper height, but once you start opening up the transom the motor choice becomes part of a much bigger structural conversation.

I lifted my scuppers, it was a no brainer. Would not leave if repowering your already going to all the effort why not do it right.

The funky aluminium transom plate and the swelling you’re seeing along the top edge is very common on these hulls.

Before repowering I :
  • Thickened the transom
  • Installed twin 75 mm knees and solid battery boards, tying everything back into the rear bulkhead
  • Rebuilt and thickened the rear transom section and re-fibreglassed it
  • Ran new stringers and glassed them all in properly
  • Relocated batteries aft and designed everything around the new load
  • Rounded, faired, and finished the transom correctly
It wasn’t cheap or quick but these are great boats, they repay you for doing it once and doing it right. If you’re already seeing fiberglass swelling and planning a repower, I’d strongly recommend fixing the structure first, then choosing the motor's, not the other way around.

Just my experience, but hopefully helpful
Click to expand...
Wow! Your 2001 GW 265 look amazing! You recreated a new Grady 265 with great motors.
Might be worth getting transom surveyed with professional moisture meter and pressure test the fuel tanks before I pull the repower trigger.
Moving those scuppers up is a great mod.
Thanks for great advice and hope you post the finished project!
 
Aussie_Boss said:
I’m in the middle of repairing and repowering a 2001 265 Express myself, so I’ve been deep down this rabbit hole.
I decided against bolting on another used HPDI for the same reasons you mentioned, great motors in their day, but at 20+ years old it’s a gamble I wasn’t comfortable with for serious use.

I chose Yamaha 300s in twin configuration. For me the big factors were reliability, modern parts support, and long-term ownership. The 300s have plenty of real world proof behind them, aren’t massively heavier than other options, and offer strong performance that suits this hull. My goal was to build something I’d confidently run for the next 10 years, not just patch it up for now.

Suzuki DF200s are solid, and the Mercury V6 200 is appealing weight-wise for the scupper height, but once you start opening up the transom the motor choice becomes part of a much bigger structural conversation.

I lifted my scuppers, it was a no brainer. Would not leave if repowering your already going to all the effort why not do it right.

The funky aluminium transom plate and the swelling you’re seeing along the top edge is very common on these hulls.

Before repowering I :
  • Thickened the transom
  • Installed twin 75 mm knees and solid battery boards, tying everything back into the rear bulkhead
  • Rebuilt and thickened the rear transom section and re-fibreglassed it
  • Ran new stringers and glassed them all in properly
  • Relocated batteries aft and designed everything around the new load
  • Rounded, faired, and finished the transom correctly
It wasn’t cheap or quick but these are great boats, they repay you for doing it once and doing it right. If you’re already seeing fiberglass swelling and planning a repower, I’d strongly recommend fixing the structure first, then choosing the motor's, not the other way around.

Just my experience, but hopefully helpful
Click to expand...
would love to see more of this project.
 
Sketchywind said:
Yes, all those unknown cost factors like labor haul out and extra parts add up. I’m still looking for a used HPDI to keep it running for awhile. Good time to pause and reevaluate how much a repower will cost if transom is rotting, fuel tanks leaking, etc. A repower will be great, but might be opening Pandora’s box needing more repair work than it’s worth.
Click to expand...
I could be wrong, but it sounds like you're a bit hesitant on repowering as well as potentially not sure how long you'll keep the boat at this point? If you're not going to hold onto the boat for another say 10 years or so, then I don't think the repower option will be your best/cheapest option at this point. I'd definitely go the used route, unless your current outboard can be salvaged, fix up what you need to, then sell the boat and maybe look for something newer that's already been repowered? I think that would be the cheapest/easiest option at this point, unless again you plan on keeping the boat for 10+ years, can justify the costs of repowering, potentially doing other work to the boat like you said... fuel tanks, transom, etc. If you plan on doing those things and keeping the boat for that long then I'd repower without question.
 
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If the tanks are original you should assume you need to replace. Pressure test only says they aren't leaking YET. Doesn't say they arent corroded at the bottom. Have you looked at them? In reality, you don't need 250 gallons with 4 strokes. You could stick with the forward 130 tank and use the space under the deck for a fish hold or another 60gals and a fish hold...
I don't think a moisture meter tells you anything definitive. I can tell you right now its wet... that doesn't mean its rotten, but it might be... You will never truly know unless its obvious or you rip it open. boating......
I agree if you aren't keeping it and using it for the foreseeable future, don't put money in it to sell it. 265 is a great FISHING boat. You can spend a lot less making it yours than buying a new boat. If you can do things yourself its a lot cheaper.
 
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Sketchywind said:
Yes, all those unknown cost factors like labor haul out and extra parts add up. I’m still looking for a used HPDI to keep it running for awhile. Good time to pause and reevaluate how much a repower will cost if transom is rotting, fuel tanks leaking, etc. A repower will be great, but might be opening Pandora’s box needing more repair work than it’s worth.
Click to expand...
Frank, if your in need of a trailer for your 265 I can let you borrow the one for by 265. I keep my boat in a slip most of the year to, so if that helps with the repower and cost, let me know.
 
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Sea Shift said:
Frank, if your in need of a trailer for your 265 I can let you borrow the one for by 265. I keep my boat in a slip most of the year to, so if that helps with the repower and cost, let me know.
Click to expand...
Thanks!! I’ll keep that in mind when I get a real qoute and see if I need to farm out the transom repair to a fiberglass shop.
 
Mustang65fbk said:
I could be wrong, but it sounds like you're a bit hesitant on repowering as well as potentially not sure how long you'll keep the boat at this point? If you're not going to hold onto the boat for another say 10 years or so, then I don't think the repower option will be your best/cheapest option at this point. I'd definitely go the used route, unless your current outboard can be salvaged, fix up what you need to, then sell the boat and maybe look for something newer that's already been repowered? I think that would be the cheapest/easiest option at this point, unless again you plan on keeping the boat for 10+ years, can justify the costs of repowering, potentially doing other work to the boat like you said... fuel tanks, transom, etc. If you plan on doing those things and keeping the boat for that long then I'd repower without question.
Click to expand...
Absolutely in a crossroad! These HPDIs have been costly to maintain this year. The failed port powerhead has put me a pickle. Slapping on a 20+ year old used HPDI may be a quick $5k-8K bandaid, but I might be in the same position in a month or year. Repowering will give me reliability and safety for the next 5-10 years (I’m 62, so being realistic). Thanks to everyone with excellent info. Happy Holidays!!
 
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