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I ran into same problem with '06 330 a few years back. It was impossible to find and I had to go to a higher, more standard microwave by increasing the space. In my case it was just the trim ring that had to be changed. Good luck, but I didn't have any.

Interested, I sent you a text.

I have 1 2001 HPDI complete, good working order when removed (last season). You could couple it to the above working one and have a pair. Get the one with the blown block as a parts motor.

Pretty sure it is an SP55 if memory serves. GW customer service could confirm.

New flapper (assuming you can get the screw out then any under water sealant. 5200 wont matter since it is only going in the stupid, drilled holes that the moron used for the flapper over flapper.

Can be tough to remove with the tool, especially if it isn't in all four holes and isn't held down -( can strip the holes). I have found the easiest way to remove them, is with an air chisel (might not be an option where you are working). Since the caps aren't too expensive I always buy new...

Thanks for the update, was wondering what the glitch was, as I replaced mine and didn't remember it being a huge deal. VERY IMPORTANT FYI: Check and replace if they aren't in good shape. My brother-in-laws Albemarle burnt to waterline starting at that connection, days before it was supposed...

Anyone? Someone? There has to be someone who has had their bolsters redone and are happy with the work on long island, no?

Looking to get my bolsters (and helm area cushions) redone. Anyone have a great experience with any companies on Long Island? Want it to look factory original. Thanks for any feedback.

I have 4 batteries on my 330, set up as Grady did from factory (2 banks of 2 batteries). All 4 are group 27. I just changed the two house bank batteries to deep cycle because of your exact issue. Prior to that they were starting batteries. The other two have the windlass and bow thruster...

Can you explain what you mean by "he found a hook, in the hull, near the transom?"

Just did, TY

If they are available, I'd like to call dibs. Will PM you.

I didn't realize one was a mixer and the other, the shower head (I thought it was 2 shower heads). That is a nice set up and one I will likely copy. Did you have enough with the drop in box just in front of that? How much depth do they take up? I would prefer to keep by ladder/transom door.

This is not uncommon and have read numerous reports of the same. Grady has done a "good" job of balancing items (batteries to port when hot water heater is to starboard) but the 330's and others can have a list. I overcame mine with a water bladder (used often for wakeboarding boats) on the...

I am looking at a shower with mixing valve to get any temp I want. My hot is too hot without cold being mixed in. As far as inspection ports, I would love to know/see if anyone has done them on the vertical, as I would prefer mine there if it makes the job possible. (even if more difficult)...

My '07 has cold only, at the transom, on the starboard side right near the electric hook up, go figure. With this location, it might allow access to those scupper hose changes (the original post). But the upgrade is simple since there is already a cool water line and the hot water heater is...

Anyone try to replace the transom shower head with a larger, hot and cold unit? Doing that might provide enough space to replace the deck drain hoses, give you a hot shower at the stern (once you run a hot water hose to it), and not require an additional plate? Asking because this is an...

That set up does not have a macerator. It simply has a bellows pump out run by a windshield wiper motor.

First see if pump is moving when you turn the key. Yes moving = problem with either diaphragm or duck bill valves as mentioned. No, not moving = either problem with electric getting to motor or motor itself. Check with test light at the plug near motor if you are getting current. Yes =...