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The later years don't have the bulkhead between the two tanks my best guess is there is a 3/4 PVC to drain the rear tank compartment to the rear bulge and the foreward compartment drains to the front bilge. I'd check the rear drain to see if it's clogged. If you're washing the tanks, whatever...

If you're towing that far/often, I'd get a cheap 2500/250 for towing and get something with better mileage for the commuting. Any 1/2 ton truck no matter what gizmo name they put after it will peak at 20 MPG highway and be thirsty around town. You can't change the physics of moving a 5000...

very true

Everyone that was thinking battery & inverter/ generator went generator. While it can be done with batteries, they're heavy and will not last that long. If you don't have the coin to drop on a Honda generator (the Yami ones have gotten decent reviews but Hondas seem to be the top dog) get a...

Try 'Finest Kind', he put twin etecs on a few years ago. I see him on the water but not on here in a while.

Re: Chronic fuel flow issues - please help before I go crazy Is the anti-siphon absolutely needed? If the line dips below the tank anywhere you have the possibility of an issue. They're cheap and easy to replace, I'd replace it. I use the clear bowl Racor filters, it lets you see what's...

I don't see any good coming out of it.

Re: Chronic fuel flow issues - please help before I go crazy I don't see why you're running the 20 micron before the 10 micron filet/separator, just the 10 would be enough. The actual pick-up is just a tube, the anti-siphion is on top of the tank. It could be a partially collapsed or crushed...

That trip is on my bucket list. It seems like you want to buddy up with someone who's done it a few times.

There's always arguments but if you have outboards the clear bowl is OK.

Unless you know the water in the tank is "safe", blowing into it is better. If it's under the livewell, that can complicate things. So what's under the aft berth?

I'm not sure it's in the same spot but on my 252 the fresh water pump is behind the panel in the aft berth & the tank is under the aft berth. The hose is maybe 24" long from the tank outlet to the pump inlet. If you pull the hose off at the pump and blow into it you'll see if it's clogged...

If you're porpoising, you may just be trimmed too high or need some tab. You shouldn't need any less that 17" pitch props, I'm running 14X19's on mine (Yami 200 carbs). If I had to do it over I'd get 17x15.25's. The wider hull & shallower deadrise will run faster if it's calm, if it's rough...

Use the silicone on the bottom.

Corless drills are DC brush motors, just because you don't see sparks flying out they're there. => BOOOOOM Shop vacs are usually AC motors (brushless and non sparking) but... when you turn them off or unplug them you have a spark. So at the very least you'll have a chamber of fumes, again bad...

Soak'm good with liquid wrench (or other) repedialy for a couple days. Then find a phillips that fits perfectly and give it a shot. I was lucky and mine came out relatively easily (if the tanks weren't out I'm sure they would have fought me to the end). If they still don't come out and you...

It could be any number of things, sender, clamp, hose, tank,... either way you're going to have to pull the tanks & see. Even a small amount will produce enough vapors to blow the back of the boat apart.

For $15K? Nooooo way. The motors are ticking time bombs and the hull may have a value of $5K. It's a buyers market, keep looking.

If you already have 3 batteries, why not install a BEP cluster and have 3 separate banks (1 for each motor and 1 for the house). Then get a 3 bank charger with distributed output (up to full charge to any bank).

That looks nice!