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In NJ the longest I'd keep it in is 2 weeks assuming you'd use it a few times and even then it'll need a cleaning. Can you borrow a trailer? I'm sure something can be worked out. If you don't have anything to tow/launch it with, it maybe be better to leave her on blocks until the rack is...

If the lower units were swapped you may get less lift but other that that not much else. It's the same motor for std and counter outboards, only the counter lower units are set up "backwards" inside. Was there a lot of wind or current?

For a ballpark price figure on $1 per gallon. Depending on where you are, shipping may shoot the price up, but either way shop around.

I can't see how you expect to average 3 MPG. Your cruise may be 2.2 and idle time is 0. I'm not sure what you expect to get when tolling but you better troll with the current, a lot.

If you could, 2 like units networked as Capt Bill said. Tie the RADAR, FF, GPS (and if you go offshore sat weather) to the same network so you can overlay the data.

I still laugh when I see that. It may have just been me but it was suprisingly easy to let it pop out on the wrong side.

From what I've heard the ride isn't much different between the SV2 and non SV2 on larger models but unless there are 2 new HPDI motors hanging on the back the price is high. If you trailer it treat it the same as your Lund but it's A LOT more boat to tow. Aluminum is better if you hit a rock...

I have 14" x 19P and I'm also right around 50, if I had to get new props I'd get 15 1/4 X 17.

Very easy on an older 2 stroke, it's little burried on the 4 strokes but not bad.

The Makos also weigh at least 1000# less. They're either running a single 250 (mid 40's) for economy or twin 225's which top them out near 60. Even with your twin 250's you'll never see 60. I don't see that hull getting 3 MPG except with maybe a single diesel but you'll be nowhere near 40 MPH...

The core is wood, I replaced it with laminated plywood. Just filling the deep chunks with fille is asking for trouble, build it up with layers of mat.

The 200 HPDI was one of the best motors Yamaha put out, but how many hours and how it was maintained will effect things a lot. As far as rot, most boats that age are suspect of transom issues. It all boils down to how well it was sealed and if anyone messed with it. Either way, get a survey...

You should be OK, the V6 need a wider spacing but the 150's are 4's (same bolt pattern).

The SWS motors are pretty tough, you didn't mention the age but the early motors (before 1992?) didn't have stainless shift shafts and when they go it's more to fix than it's worth. Check the condition of yours before making long term plans with that motor. Unless you have a catastrophic...

I see cracks in the side so water probably got in the core so I'd say no. The stock pulpit doesn't have much strength in itself (the sides are mostly filler), the wood core has all the strength.

The seacock is almost directly under the 6" plate in the rear hatch cover. If you have a bracket model it's easier to open the center drop down cover and reach in. The pump should be on the port stringer under the hatch cover, if it's making noise the motor is OK but the impeller may be shot...

$7000 doesn't seem to be a great deal, how good of a friend? If the motor dumps on you 1 month later what's going to happen? If the motor doesn't have corrosion issues and the extra weight isn't a problem, your style of fishing would benefit from a 4 stroke. In a comparison the carb 2 strokes...

$1300? I'm in the wrong business! I rebuilt mine 5 years ago, first time working with fiberglass and the pulpit was in shambles. From the pics you're going to have to do some grinding and filling, dirty and time consuming but not that hard. If the core is shot, you'll have to cut the bottom...

There isn't much else that's easy to do except Woody's Wax. The Gelcoat is worn down and whatever you do will lessen it's ability to stop you from slipping all over the place. To restore the finish you have to put down new gell or paint with non-skid additive.

Yea, in the back of the berth under the helm is an access panel. Behind that you should see the trim tab pump, fresh water pump and a 8" x 8" piece of wood covering a hole. Under there are the fill hose and vent hose connections. Search for the phillips screw heads, there there for most of...