need help, looking at 1989 2500 Sailfish

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I have found a 1989 Sailfish 2500 with twin 200 yamahas, The boat is in michigan and never seen salt water. (as far as i know)
This would be a big step up for me, currently fishing out of a 17' Lund

1. Never owned a fiberglass boat
2. What kind of issues should i be looking for?
3. asking price is $22,000 the boat is in good shape and has a lot of extras but this sounds a little high to me

i need a little advice form any one with this model

Thank you

Mike for Michigan
 
Well first of all the '89 Sailfish does not have the SV2 hull design which was a great improvement in ride and handling. You did not specify the year, type and hours on the motors. A complete survey by a reputable person including the motors is in order. You may be able to negotiate downward from the price. Transom rot, soft floors are just a start on what to look for. An experienced marine surveyor will do all this for you.
 
From what I've heard the ride isn't much different between the SV2 and non SV2 on larger models but unless there are 2 new HPDI motors hanging on the back the price is high. If you trailer it treat it the same as your Lund but it's A LOT more boat to tow. Aluminum is better if you hit a rock but you don't want to take that boat in the skinny water of a lake anyway. There are too many things to list to look at and see if the boat is worthy. Give it a thorough investigation and if you seem OK with it, have it surveyed. You don't want to drop $15-20K on a boat only to have more bills to get it going.

I have a friend with a 18' (or so) Lund and I have a '91 Sailfish, there is a huge difference.
 
For better results, you should specify the boat's style and model number, as there is no such thing as a 1989 Grady White 2500. For example if it's a 25' Sailfish, the model numbers are 255, 254, and 252G. If it's a 25' Trophy Pro, the model numbers are 257, 258, and 259G. Also, it would be helpful if you would provide a complete description of the motors, along with the number of engine hours on each.

I would take the suggestion that SV2 hulls are better than their predecessors with a grain of salt. They are indeed different, and from what I understand, are designed to provide a better head sea ride by carrying their sharp hull entry further back towards the transom. But all hull designs are a compromise, and what you gain in terms of performance in one aspect, usually results in a loss of performance in another. In any event, I would not let the difference in hull designs affect your buying decision when shopping in the market for 20+ year old Grady White boats. In making that decision, you will have bigger fish to fry.
 
Thanks for the info...
I know the boat is a 1989 and its a 25 ft sailfish, I did not get the model number. Next time I look at it I’ll get better info

What’s a SV2 hull? I’ve always like the looks of the Grady Whites I've seen out on Lake Michigan but I'm new to this part of their product line.

I've talked to a friend of mine that runs a Charter boat and he put me in touch with a Marine Surveyor that he has used. He will look it for a fee.....Good idea

As for the motors I know there old (1989) but if they will hold up 4-5 years I hope retire and spend winters in Florida, New motors rated for Salt water would be the next thing,

Things like transom rot and soft floor are the deal breakers. Any easy way to check the transom? or is that best left the pro's

This boat is clean and has had good care, the hull is free for "Dock rash" and the cock pit in good shape, It comes with a Nice trailerw/breaks (I checked) but I think it may be a little overpriced.

Is there a easy way to put a value on a 23 year old boat and trailer ??

Thanks again for the help

Mike The "want-a-bee" G.H. owner
 
SV2 is simply a proprietary designation which GW applied to a relatively subtle design change it made to the bottom of its tried and true hull shapes (in the fashion I previously described). New is better, right? I would be very interested to know if the boat has spent much of its life stored as a trailer boat, or alternatively, as a slipped boat. This has implications for water intrusion issues which pop up from time to time. Shop around and then make an offer if you like the boat and it checks out as seaworthy. You haven't provided enough information to determine a fair price for the boat. Whether the boat has been repowered or not is a huge issue, since rigging a pair of new F150 Yamaha counter-rotators is going to cost more than the boat, motors and trailer as it now sits. Will that be a good investment for the future? Of course not, but I did it anyway. Never use the term investment when discussing boats and boating.
 
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