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I found one trick to installing rod holders is to make a jig out of scrap two by wood. Drill appropriate size hole through two pieces. Glue them together. Cut the two pieces to the correct angle, and clamp over gunwale. Use a longer bit, as others have said, and the jig holds the correct angle.

Can you pinpoint the source of the wobble? It likely isn't the base, so it is either the connection from the pedestal to the base, or the pedestal to the chair.

All of these posts have me remebering the "fun" I had docking my Sailfish on windy days in the Spring and Fall when all my canvas was up. Even with twins, it was an adventure. I couldn't imagine trying to do it with a single, especially against the torque of the prop. As others have said...

Given the number of things that don't work, I would worry about the level of maintenance the boat received. Softness combined with lack of cushions point to long term water intrusion. All of the non working electrical points to the current owner not caring about upkeep. What else doesn't...

When I researched ceramic, it required a periodic (timing dependent on sun/sea exposure could be as short as 3-4 months in FLA) application of a booster. Seemed to me that I could also wax every 3 months, and keep a shine. It is not a magic coat the boat, and only wash for the next 5 years

You may have an issue with lack of torque at the low end, and see excessive bow rise and a loooong time to get on plane because of that

You are welcome. You can ask your local Grady dealer, or contact Grady directly. They are really good about providing support for things like this.

Here is a picture with it folded. One is in the bow, and the second over the galley.

Here is a link to a picture from the catalog. https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/272-cabin-rod-storage.33069/

Assume you know about/have the fold away rod storage over the galley. Can you get to seven feet by using two pieces of starboard, one by the mirror at the front of the v that is low, and one up high by the forward head wall? Might even be able to use the fold away,but in reverse.

You also have to remember that electronics, etc. can impact cost. I bought a new 2000 Sailfish, boat itself was $110k, or so, inverter, Rupp Outriggers, Center Rigger, and a fairly robust (three displays, radar, ff, two VHFs, Stereo, TV antenna) were another $30-35k

I would be comfortable cruising 24-27 knots. The reality is in anything above that, it stops being fun, and becomes a filling integrity check in all but flat calm water. I am not looking for a speed demon. I just don't want to have to run the boat at 95% of WOT all day to get a decent cruise...

I am currently looking at some older Express 330s that have a max HP rating of 500 HP. For those of you who have a 330 with twin 250s, or 225s, how do you find performance? Thanks

As mentioned, you can buy a rider to extend the season. YOur policy may also prohibit your boat being south of NC/SC/GA after June 1 due to hurricane risk. Again, you can purchase a rider to get coverage.

Adequate depends on you, and your expectations. I am old enough to remember when 25 foot boats had twin 70 HP engines, and that was adequate. The market, and technology, has changed such that boats today are faster than ever. As others have mentioned try to get a sea trial, and see if you are...

About $100

If you have a through hull transducer there are two mounting flats aft of the fuel tank under the aft bench seat. They intended to be used to mount the transducer.

What about using stainless railing components. Something like this https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?name=s-s-steel-tubing&path=-1|7504|2290217&id=2290221 https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1%7C7504%7C2290217&id=2290219

My opinion, based on nothing but common sense, is that a broker who sells a boat that he is already storing to someone in NJ in January should show some flexibility in storing the boat. It is not as if you are asking him to find room for a boat that is off premise.

Here is a video with a view from the helm