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Check with your local Yamaha/Grady shop..they'll tell you the right way to do it......but I have seen guys pull their therms out and run their engines just with ear muffs to flush things out.

If you can post some pics on what you're trying to accomplish, it would help.....re-coring a tank hatch is one thing, cutting the deck itself is much more involved.

NEM, interesting question.....after chemically stripping, sand and soda blasting, I personally would not go naked on the hull. The boats I have done were all 20 years old, so they had some mileage on them. When you blast off, or for that matter, even chemically peel off or sand the bottom...

After Blasting After barrier coating

Have him do a test panel and see how you like it....if it looks good and is rough enough to give the paint a good tooth, yet smooth enough to cover easily, you should be good to go....just pay attention to the hard edges like the chines and strakes as those will be areas any blaster can make a...

there are several choices...one part like Brightside or 2 part urethanes like Perfection....or go all out with Awlgrip, Imron or Alexseal....same paints as for the rest of the boat topside

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1377908 on sale through sunday

I second that.....I was skeptical at first, but had mine sand blasted by recommendation by 2 marina mechanics...guy did a great job...had a very light hand and the hull came out perfect and ready for touch up sanding and barrier coating.....did another boat with sodablasting a few years...

I wouldn't use any type of mold release either...I would pre-drill the holes so the screw goes in and comes out easy....usually the thickness of the screw's shank, not the larger thread portion.....and the screw tip and threads only needs to go in about a 1/4 inch or so..with a fender washer as...

Sorry guys...let me clarify my comments...I thought you were doing each layer of glass one at a time and letting it cure fully in between.....if you're doing one layer of ply at a time thats fine....you don't need to put layers of epoxy all around each ply, sand then put together....just do one...

you dont want to wait between layers to cure...you want to add layers wet on wet...a chemical bond is stronger than a secondary mechanical bond and you avoid sanding which you will need to do each time you let a layer cure......its ok between layers of wood core, but I wouldnt do it between...

Go to Interlux's web site and look at the primer section...they have product data sheets which tell you how and how much to use including calculating the amount to use,

The aluminum should be 6061 and is TIG welded...the welds are covered in aluminum colored paint to look pretty and resemble the rest of the top. The tubing is anodized, so when they weld, the paint on the joints covers everything.

I'd have no problem cutting the lip at all....mine was not cut evenly from the factory to begin with...some areas were bigger and some smaller....and even a few missing, possibly from the previous owner...once you put the tank in, you could always glass in a little material as you should have...

some guys have used ply, some used starboard....I would use a high quality marine ply like Okume or Meranti...looks like mahogany, strong, rot resistant etc.....MDO?? Not really a marine product....in either case, epoxy the edges before installing so it won't absorb moisture through the end...

are you talking about the duratrim bulkhead that looks like fake wood paneling?

air chisel and a 4 or 6 inch disc grinder...and get a good disc grinder....I killed a craftsman real early in its life...the bearing sits in a plastic housing and melted from the heat....bought a Makita and haven't had an issue yet.

The steps for blasting, etching and priming with IP is the ticket, but you will still need to cover the Interprotect with a paint....use Trilux 33...made for aluminum below the waterline. The zinc should be already on the bracket as Grog mentioned...mine is the same, between the engines. Make...

That, and when you do your outer skins and cover the 3 sides (the 6 inch area you left) also come over the top and sides of the motor well to tie all 4 sides of the transom together. Here's a link to VW's project...see how he tabbed the corners on page 2...then see how he wrapped over the top...

close enough...you get the gist of it..just another area of the perimeter to secure to existing glass.....although tabbing is required as well.....thats the use of a couple layers of narrow width glass tape to adhere to all the corners/border first, then glass over with full width...