Ok thanks guys, all the cool tools worked. I got a dewalt 4 1/2 in insted of the makita only because it was better deal, @ $59.00 and a 3yr protection plan.
After a couple of weeks here is where I am at. All the wood out. Except for some still stuck to the inside of the remaining 3in of outer skin. I can get that out with a drum sanding disk on a drill. Some of the upper skin on the port side around the fuel fill hose came apart during the skin removal, and the upper tabbing is still stuck on the inner skin as you can see. Should I need to reconstruct that? Does not seem like it had much to do with the strenth. Now for some glass work, I plan to tab up the sides of the skin to the motor well as they were not attached to begin with. Also, as you can see the lower engine mount holes are trashed :wow , will need cut out out and patch that area.
Have ordered the wood. will be delivered this Sat,,, :dance Now a question on west systems hardner. I plan to start getting this back togther starting Mid Apr, With the average temp in the 50's (possible 60's on some days) and at night could drop to 35. What hardner should I be using, I have 206 slow for my 105 resin, will I be risking anything using this hardner in these temps? I do plan on waiting till the daytime temps and surface temps are 55+ before I start applying any resin, but how will temp drops during the cure affect the resin. I do plan to allow a week of curing between layers. So I figure it will take me about 3 weeks complete the rebuild, then is fairing and gelcoat in mid May when the temps are in the 60's +
Total Labor hours so far from start to this point: 18.5