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Are you sure the engines are counter rotating? If not, that would explain why it crabs when backing down. If they are counter rotating, then try backing down with just the port side motor and see if it still crabs.

The new style pumps Tournament series (401 FC) have the replaceable motors. Mine is the old style pump that do not. Thanks though, that would definitely be much simpler if I could. Also good for others to know that the 500 can be easily upgraded to 800, with just a cartridge change.

Well, after calls to Grady, my local dealer and getting down to the boat and cleaning and inspecting my old pump, it turns out it is a Rule 500 GPH. That is what they are still using today...the Rule 401 FC, which is 500 GPH and 3/4" on both in and out. I did buy the Shurflow 800 GPH and think I...

Thanks again. I am not sure what I have on output diameter. In searching old posts I see people are using the 1100 and saying it was a 1 for 1 fit with plumbing. That means they have 1 1/8". Others say they use 800 and it too was a 1 for 1 and it is 3/4". I agree 800 is the right flow and am...

Thanks. I saw your post via search. I agree that 800 seems the best match re. flow, but it has a 3/4" diameter on the output side. From what I am hearing now, the plumbing to the tank is 1 1/8", which matches up with the 1100 (still trying to confirm if this is correct). Do you know which...

Thanks for the feedback. So I guess you are confirming that the plumbing from the pump to the livewell is 1 1/8" diameter? That is the diameter of the Shurflow 1100 on the output side. The 800 is only 3/4".

After reading what I could find via search, it seems some of the guys with Marlins have used the Shurflo 1100 versus the 800 GPH. Is the tank the same size as the Sailfish (either 30 or 32 gal.) or is it a larger tank? I ask because the 1100 is rated for 50 or 60 gal tanks. Also confusing is...

The newer models may switch to 120 when on shore power, but the older ones don't. The closest you get is you run the battery charger while on shore power to prevent the fridge from killing the house battery.

After 18 seasons, looks like it might be time to replace my livewell pump. The boat is a 2000 272 Sailfish. Does anyone know what pump is in there or what a good replacement pump would be? The concern is it needs to fit with the existing plumbing (Grady Rep. said it was 3/4 inch) and also the...

Thanks for the info. Found a replacement on Defender. I never use the head, but do run that pump about 3 times per season to exercise it. That's how I found out it was broke. Thanks again for the info. Oh...for anyone else who might be interested, the p/n is 155-6110-12

The in-tank macerator pump (holding tank) went on my 2000 272 Sailfish. Does anyone know who the manufacturer is or, even better, what the pump part number might be. I will try Grady White if nobody responds , but thought I would give the forum a shot first. Thanks.

One possibility is the rubrail. The leak could be from where the top cap is mated to the hull underneath the rubrail. I had this happen on my Sailfish when I first bought it. The dealer just dropped the rubrail and resealed that joint. That was over 15 years ago. It hasn't leaked since.

I didn't know the plate layout on the 30 Express, but on my 272 I was able to replace both front and back floats from the plates. Not easy but doable.

While the above is all good advice, I'd like to clarify that if your bilge pump kills your battery and that leaves you "stranded", you have got the bilge wired to the wrong battery (assuming you have more that one). The bilge should be wired to the house battery and not the cranking battery...

You will probably get more helpful input if you at least give us the model, not to mention what power, how many hours, and the overall condition, etc. If you are just looking for info on the negotiating tactics of low-balling, you could probably get that info on most any site. Best of luck with...

There should be a rocker switch on your dash for "aux and main"

If the engine was fogged for winter storage, you will want to burn off the fogging oil first.

If it is just sticking, you can easily take it apart and clean and lube the o-rings with some teflon, or similar grease, and then stretch the spring a bit and reassemble. Should buy you some time anyway.

Before you do anything, check the transom shower nozzle to see if it is dripping. They are notorious for not shutting off all the way. If that isn't your problem then follow the above advice. Good luck.

:goodjob So, what is your point?