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Well done, Len, and she looks GREAT!

Kinda wondered why GW was using fuses...

Have you put a meter on it to see if it actually has power? Seeing as you are probably not the original owner, and the boat is fairly old, it may be a power supply for some unknown piece of equipment that has long since been discarded...

Glad to be of service...

Are they glass fuses? Can you grab the end with a pair of needlenose pliers?

Give me the dimensions and wall thickness you want, as well as fill/vent and pickup/sender locations. I can get them in .090" and .125" wall thicknesses. That goes for any one else on GreatGrady...

I can get a very good deal from RDS, they manufacture our tanks also. Just got a 50 gallon for a friend on classicaquasport for $385 to his house in Palm Harbor... Let me know, my buddy Ray at RDS would like the business...

It is not a cheap, nor easy task to undertake. Good wire, especially as you get into the 10GA and up size, is quite pricey. Then you want to use uninsulated connectors with adhesive lined shrink sleeving. Genuinedealz is a great place to buy this material. But the hardest part is getting a...

...GW doesn't either...

Grog, What do you mean when you say "DC common"? Are you meaning 12V-? If the "DC common" didn't tie into DC ground anywhere, none of your 12V equipment would work, as there would be no return path back to the battery. Take a look at these 2 drawings I've done, one of the typical...

Congrats! Yes, the dreaded black wire is the sign of corrosion, inherent in all older boats, GW or whatever. It occurs simply from the environment boats exist in. What the result is is that the resistance in the circuit increases, thus the current flow decrease, resulting in a drop in...

Did your gauge show any issues, i.e. over heat, low oil, anything?

That's not good... All the tanks fittings are on top of the tank, there is no way that kind of gas is going to leak out from a top-mounted fitting...

Put a meter on your solenoid at rest, check the voltage. Now, with the meter still on the solenoid, have the wife or a buddy hit the up switch, see what your meter reads...

That is a good thing!

Remember, one lead will come off the float (fuse it with a NEW inline fuse holder!) and go straight to either post 1 or 2 on the batt switch. The other lead will be spliced together with the solid brown wire coming off the pump, which goes forward to the switch on the helm. When you do the...