Search results

As I said earlier, if the "Bus Devices" screen is showing the GPS antenna in the I-Command network to be working correctly, the network is "seeing" the antenna. However, the gauge, and your Lowrrance, are not. Therefore, the issue is in the network, either in another tee, a backbone harness...

Separate batt for windlass? Don't need it. Thruster? Hmmmmm......

So your "Buss Devices" screen is telling you the GPS antenna is working properly, and you can get a fix. But your I-Command gauge can't see the antenna to get "Speed over ground". Swap your gauge connector to another tee, perhaps your fuel sender, see if this helps. Also, make sure your speed...

Generators should never have high speed, or "scoop" type pickups for the intake, and I'm sure GW installed the correct intake t/hull, with an external strainer. I think they are worried that, regardless of the correct install, some water could be forced up into the intake, past the pump, and...

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/290383-www-1outboard-com-blackbird-industries-warranty-claim-my-yamaha-f225-4-stroke.html http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... lease.html Stay far, far away from them...

I just bought an Inca tank through my Inca Rep for one of the guys on my site...they work with me, if you know what I mean...and it was an OEM tank for a V20 Wellcraft.

Why not go with the usual 3-bank 30A?

Much easier to do it at the engine end. You have to take the whole binnacle apart to adjust at the throttle end...

I have an "in" with Ray Veal at RDS as well as an "in" at Inca tanks in Nashville...can save you a bit of change...

Either one. Just give it a couple days (48 hours) to cure all the way through...

So you could do a complete re-wire in a "long day"...that I'd like to see... Hull harness, built and installed, old one yanked out. Deck harness, built and installed, old one yanked out. Engines de-rigged, old harnesses yanked out, new ones run. Engines re-rigged. Helm wiring (sorry, but...

Phil, What kind of room do you have beneath the v-berth? You also need to consider the t/hull pickup location, strainer location, pump location, and where your going to install those 3 batts... Takes some planning...

Will, If you want a real quick fix to seal the area, fill the damage with 5200...not a thick layer but enough to seal off the exposed glass. Your repair guy will be able to remove it and do the proper repairs once you can get him to your boat...

Your cool, just dragged the pics from the THT thread onto my desk top, uploaded into my Photobucket account, and viola...here they are!

Give them some pics to look at without having to go elsewhere...

Mike, That is the unfortunate aspect of owning a boat. To do a proper re-wire, you need the right materials, and considering all the switches and breakers are over 25 years old, they are ready for replacement too. I've seen corrosion so bad here in the Tampa Bay area that I've measured a...

I do it quite often in my sidework. Deck harnesses, hull harnesses, engine harnesses. I also recommend replacing switches and breakers as the corrosion that kills the wiring also gets into these. It's not easy, but it's obviously doable... For a boat like yours, I'd probably charge...

The MarineAir CuddyCool DC unit will give you 8 hours run time on 3 Group 27 batts...BBUUTT, they need to be dedicated to the unit. Which means you need 3 more batts...

How does this one look? Familiar? :(

Switching to both on both switches should have started your port motor. Time to get the meter out and see what's going on. You also may have a loose connection on the port motor batt cable on the "common" post of the batt switch. I'd pull the switches down and make sure everything is tight...