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Thanks, I was thinking of the through hull more than the actual valve, which seems very solid.

My 2004 180 Sportsman still has the original bronze seacock and thru-hull fitting for the live well. It looks and feels fine, very rigid when I turn the valve handle, so I have no reason to believe anything is wrong. Are these type fittings usually replaced at a certain age as scheduled...

The arrow should be pointing to the drilled pilot hole in the deck. you fill with epoxy and drive the screw while wet so it cures molded to the screw and is forced into deck substrate.

I put a T-Top on a 180 this year and since there was no way to use backing plates the manufacturer recommends "screw and glue", putting 5200 under the floor pads before screwing down. I'm amazed how solid it is.

Inside a 180, in front of bilge pump area....quite a bit of foam.

Will do, thanks.

I'm having some end of year work/winterizing done and was thinking of having them shrink wrap the boat but would need to trailer it about 20 miles home at highway speed. Will shrink wrap hold up to that?

No , the albies came in on LI north Shore around Cranes Neck, might even still be around, but I didn't see any on The CT side. Going out in the morning though.

That's the launch ramp in Norwalk, I'm docked at Ischoda Yacht Club. You in Stamford? I'll look out for you. I fish primarily between Darien and Bridgeport, Eatons to Stratford Shoals. Boat has a top now....

The striping on my 2004 180 was all chewed up when I got it. I figured new decals were the price of a decent fishing reel so I went minimalist, and I like it....

I'm considering having 3 sided windscreen for the T-Top on my 180CC.

I rebuilt my trailer last year and that included new springs, hangers, adding a cross member, plus moving crossmembers and the axle for better balance. I did it alone and, while doable, much better to have a helper. Also, a sawzall for the U-bolts and an impact driver will greatly help.

No way to get underneath for backing plates.

No, the deck flanges are welded to the bottom of the upright.

OK, got it. FYI this frame is all welded, no hinges, only the top is held to the uprights by 4 large beefy clamps similar to this, only the bottom half is welded to the frame...

More than any other T-Top? Just curious why? I trailer it twice a year, once to the ramp in spring and again back home in fall, about 15 miles each way.

Circling back to this for anyone else contemplating a T-Top. I ended up doing the screw and glue to the deck and since I put on the T-Bag and electronics box, along with extra rod holders, got the extra console bracing kit . Top is solid to the boat, great addition.

I put them on mine last year, wouldn't be without them, especially since I have a (heavy) Honda 150 hanging off the back. I trim motor down most of the way and tabs down about half to get on plane. I adjust motor trim till I get optimum speed for rpm and the trim the boat with the tabs.

I just did posts last year, I got the aluminum ones that get 2" PVC slipped over. They're just behind the trailer wheels and about 1/2" wider than the width of the hull, work great. BTW, my trailer had 2 long bunks that had an upward bend up front but never really contacted the hull up front...

Been fishing my 2004 180 for 2 years now. My emergency box and tool box (2 plastic ammo boxes) are in the console along with the throwable, cast net, drift sock and anything else that won't move around much and hit the wiring. I put a storage bin under the seat until I figure out something...