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My big question is still what type of batteries.... My manual says they should not be deep cycle. I think this has to do with deep cycle are not supposed to always be on a charge. Mine will charge when running and when docked. Any ideas?

Thanks guys. How does this ACR differ from a system that allows both batteries to be run together or isolated along with an onboard charger?

I am running a 95 Sailfish 272 with same age 200HP Johnsons. I am getting about .8 - 1mpg depending on conditions/load. I have Viper 17 pitch props. I believe my WOT is somewhere in the neighborhood of 5200RPMS. I have been talking to people about options to get an increase in MPG and the Rebel...

I am in need of new house and starting batteries for my 95 Sailfish 272. My house battery is on a separate isolated on/off switch and my two starting batteries each have their own Off, 1, 2 and both switches. I am running twin 200hp Johnsons. Currently the house battery is a marine deep cycle...

There are also places Ebay that will sell complete decals, stripes, etc. fairly cheap. I redid all of mine on my Sailfish and changed to color to match the name colors. My wife did the striping.

I agree! It is a stupid design if you as me. Nothing like your anchor coming out off the roller while you are trying to hoist it in a sporty sea. I was thinking of having one made for it but, Not sure I have an area on mine to secure it.

Does your anchor roller have a bent piece of round bar or flat bar at the tip of the roller to help guide your anchor up? Mine doesn't and I find it very odd. Is it because the 272 comes stock with an anchor locker? Has anyone added one to their roller? Attached is a picture of the what I am...

I am not familiar with your specific boat but, on my 272 I removed the 'glass' from the lower 'glove box' and cut starboard to fit and flush mounted my 7610. I searched this forum and found some ideas. It isn't the cleanest of installations but, I likely saved hundreds by doing it myself. It is...

I have the Garmin 7610vsx with chirp/side/down/radar. I love it. It is easy to use and networks with a ton of other units. I just picked up a clearance 8212 MFD that it will network with via 1 cable and share all data and operate separately if needed. I like the ability to customize your combos...

Interesting.... I still have to build that tackle holder or, might just use a wooden craft crate from Michael's or AC Moore. They're really sturdy and 1/3 the cost. Could stain and poly it and likely get a few years out of it. How are the rods staying upright?

I know this is an old thread but, I scraped my original wood idea and moved on to a different option. I bought a 10 rack holder (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261040755460?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT) from Ebay. My thought is I can use the metal frame of my port window to secure some sort of mounting setup...

Right you guys were! They are adjustable. I was at the boat today getting ready to haul her out and checked into it. Thanks!

Is anyone using this system (GARMIN 010-00705-01 GARMIN GHP COMPACT REACTOR AUTOPILOT STARTER KIT)? It says it is not suggested for use while fishing and trolling at low speeds. What is your experience with it? How difficult are they to install? I have a 7610 and 8212 can I control everything...

Is this the 2003 set on Facebook? I think he wants $11k for them? I saw them too. They look clean. I guess the best thing to do would be a mechanic who could run the factory software checks, run them in the water and look them over for you. A few hundred dollars up front beats a lot more after...

His name is Chris. I want to say the company name is Total Fabrication. He is not very tech savvy so, I doubt he is on the internet. He does a lot of custom plastic and mold work for rare vintage cars. His number is: (267) 566-6741. He is sometimes hard to get a hold of too. LOL. For the price...

I have the same boat in a 1995. I bought the boat last year and it has the same problem on all of the lid covers. I found a guy in Croydon, PA that did all 5 of mine, repaired my pulpit, dock rash, touched-up some other spots and wet sanded the hull for $1,200! It was a steal that I could not go...

If it is anything like the one in the Sailfish there should be a top trim piece that needs to be removed. The microwave has "feet" that sit in two or four holes in the bottom of the compartment. You need to lift up on the microwave and remove it.

When you say it sounds like it wants to go down do you mean the trim motor is making a noise or the solenoid is clicking. You likely have a solenoid for up and one for down. If you can access them you can switch their positions to rule out solenoid issue.

Great! What display are you using? Do yourself a favor and use it alot so you can get used to the sea/rain clutter settings in different conditions. Use the overlay and single range options a lot inland and offshore so you can get an idea of what different targets look like.

Thanks for the info! I know it can be done. I wanted to hear people's experiences with it.