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Barnacle Bills site , might help

1/4 inch metal shop did the top and lower engine bolts

Thanks , its not marine grade stainless I didn't use antifouling paint I'll keep my eye on it !

Make sure you seal the screws on that Aluminum plate big issue with water entering !

I went to a local metal shop had two 4 inch x 24 inch ss 1/4 plates made using a cardboard temp plate and Evinrude engine spec sheet on engine bolt location $ 135 , Fiberglass guy fixed both sides where I had cracks , he said its not bad yet and all transoms have water , they were easy to...

I have everything with Travelers , a few years bad my wife was in a serious car accident from day one they were excellent so important when you need them , I have my two boats covered with them , last year had some small damage claim was on hold until I could determine how bad very easy to work...

Depending on your schedule from what I was told a week ago mine will need to be replaced ,strength is the laminate of both sides bonded to the wood , the marine fiberglass guy who looked at mine said it all depends on how serious it is that those transoms are very strong . He recommended I...

Had an marine fiberglass expert check my 98 208 I have one crack on the port side from the corner of the engine well toward the trim tabs sames as the pictures above for four years each year grid just the crack out and repair it with epoxy each year during the freeze they recrack and each year...

I have a 98 208 was wondering if cutting the aluminum cap with a dremel each side of the motor and resealing without removing the motor is worth it since that is a problem area ? Thanks

You can fix the problem maybe and then something else fails your back to not having a boat , Friend recently had shop attempt to remove it then cut the shaft purchased a rebuilt lower unit and that failed during the season .Good luck with your decision !

Dropped off a anchor hatch to local boat fiberglass guy to be redone, cracks , and splits .$300 to $400 i was told ,I'm sure it will closer to 4

I know of the problem friend needed to cut the shaft , I agree if its still working continue using it until you have to address the issue , I saw youtube guy turned it over and with all lub and heat it did come apart . Before your impeller goes bad maybe something else will fail .

Third year using the same shrink wrap on 208 , after the first year installed a large zipper front of the boat 4 or 6 feet which was simple , use the same frame slide in on zip it close and using the same ties to the trailer , installed a zipper door to work on the boat if needed . Any problem...

I agree and I'm the third owner don't know how the boat was trailered ,I thought of installing steel braces inside that area to see if that helps >

I have a 98 208 and been dealing with that crack in the gel coat on the port side for five years it is an area that takes some stress raising and lowering the engine ,my bilge is dry never any water boat is at a slip during the summer , I believe its more stress related then water as its high...

we always look at the power wire and if the ground wire is the issue then both manual and float will not work , check the ground wire even jump it after any splices .

Fantastic engines ,use very little oil never never smell of a two stroke , great on gas a whole lot less maintenance touch the key any weather starts right up, excellent power.If you research the Etec they run cleaner then 4 strokes . Soon we will be all driving electric cars and be convinced...

I was interested in the Auto also but they have issues I would be spending way to much time re calibrating them , I upgrade to the LED controls so you know exactly the position of each , had them a few years and they are simple to use .

I have a lot of rods in my 208 always been an issue , started using fishing rod braided mesh sleeves different ones for spinning and bait casting has stopped many issues ,

I have a 98 208 with pulpit friend just installed spot lock not a grady any suggestions ?