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The core was end-grain balsa. Probably use a Divinycell foam board to replace. Pretty much the same job as a transom. Cut off skin, dig out wood, replace coring. glass back together, fair & paint. Sounds so easy.... I think a problem would be that the hull is not flat like a Grady transom...

After a fuel filter problem (see new thread....) I was able to run both motors for 15 minutes each on each tank to prime everything. Pumped the ball every few minutes. No leaks. Had a thought about swapping position of the valve and filter. Would make filter change a lot easier and safer.

Yes I've bought Sierra on Amazon. $26 ... I just couldn't wait 2 days. needed to run the motors. so I went to West Marine. They have the Sierra bowl on Amazon for $35. Its $39 at WM. I somewhat trust the seirra...why? idk...I guess West Marine gives it some respect. I trust RACOR but damn its...

Reviving thread to post success. Motors never really run well on flushing "ears". Too much drips out and it loses prime. It may "Pee" a little but not get full pressure up to the tstat. Constantly trying to stop leakage around "ears". Needed to run motors for a long time to prime fuel lines...

S3213 and Sierra 18-7919 are 10 micron filters that use reusable clear bowls. They fit Mercury, Yamaha, and Suzuki OEM mounts. They have 11/16"-16 thread. (OMC used a larger thread) I used Racor S3213 with the clear bowl for 18 years on my last boat. I also used them on this boat but started...

This is an impellor after 2 seasons and 400 hours. probably last another 400 no problem. But dropping the LU after a couple years could be a problem. So I changed them anyways....MAINTENANCE.

3 coats grey Pettit Protect epoxy primer - 1.5 gallons. 2 coats black Pettit Odessy HD ablative - 1 gallon

From an iPhone. In any case, you need to reduce the size and make it a jpeg.

Haven't run them yet so idk if it leaks ;)

Is the grey a wrap?

Are you Sure it’s not oil change reminder ?

Wholesale marine warehouse

It’s yellow gasoline tape not Teflon

Finally got around to installing these. These are direct match to OEM Grady 2000 265 express. 1/4" FNPT 3 way fuel selector-Moeller 033302-10 Don't be fooled by others. These are what you need.

I know my 200 zuke i4s are geared differently but I’m running 15.25 x 22 and topping out at 41 @ 5950. Your v6 250s should outperform me by a lot 15.25x 15 seems way off. They wouldn’t move my boat.

So stuck with the plan.. "I will sand off blisters and fair with Total Boat epoxy fairing compound. I will prime deck with Total Boat epoxy barrier coat. I will paint deck with Pettit EZDeck and EZpoxy in Off White color." In addition, I built up the forward corners with 2 layers of chopped...

You are likely not going to get rods longer than 6 ft in there. First step is trying some rods at different angles to see how they can fit. You might be able to use rod grommets to get the tips thru the forward bulkhead into the anchor locker. I use them on my 265 to get 7' rods in there...

I don't have the same motors but I have the same boat. When I had OX66s I had 19m (3 blade) props. Many boats run 17Ms on Yamahas. The 19s lowered the max rpm but bit the water, got on plane without slipping and stayed on plane in crap. Don't get hung up on reaching the "max" rpm. The 265...

The acrylic is nice but it can crack. I made my panel (well I tried) with 3/16 acrylic. After the cutout for the 12" display, there was one corner that was very narrow(an inch). That cracked while drilling the mounting hole. I remade it with 1/2" black starboard. Starboard is much easier DIY...

I don't have Yamahas but... aside from the starter cables... There may be a connection of the motor cable harness to one or both batteries. That cable harness connects to your gauges and your Garmin (probably thru a J1939 connector, not NMEA2k) If it only connects to one battery(your battery2)...