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I rebuilt my trailer last year and that included new springs, hangers, adding a cross member, plus moving crossmembers and the axle for better balance. I did it alone and, while doable, much better to have a helper. Also, a sawzall for the U-bolts and an impact driver will greatly help.

No way to get underneath for backing plates.

No, the deck flanges are welded to the bottom of the upright.

OK, got it. FYI this frame is all welded, no hinges, only the top is held to the uprights by 4 large beefy clamps similar to this, only the bottom half is welded to the frame...

More than any other T-Top? Just curious why? I trailer it twice a year, once to the ramp in spring and again back home in fall, about 15 miles each way.

Circling back to this for anyone else contemplating a T-Top. I ended up doing the screw and glue to the deck and since I put on the T-Bag and electronics box, along with extra rod holders, got the extra console bracing kit . Top is solid to the boat, great addition.

I put them on mine last year, wouldn't be without them, especially since I have a (heavy) Honda 150 hanging off the back. I trim motor down most of the way and tabs down about half to get on plane. I adjust motor trim till I get optimum speed for rpm and the trim the boat with the tabs.

I just did posts last year, I got the aluminum ones that get 2" PVC slipped over. They're just behind the trailer wheels and about 1/2" wider than the width of the hull, work great. BTW, my trailer had 2 long bunks that had an upward bend up front but never really contacted the hull up front...

Been fishing my 2004 180 for 2 years now. My emergency box and tool box (2 plastic ammo boxes) are in the console along with the throwable, cast net, drift sock and anything else that won't move around much and hit the wiring. I put a storage bin under the seat until I figure out something...

I'll take them for shipping, thanks, PM sent.The cheaper ones tend to rust.

Looking for 2 used, but good condition.

i want to get a drift sock for fluke fishing on my 180 Sportsman, anyone else try that? What size did you use? thanks, Rob

Just a scuff sand and acetone wipe to allow the 4200 to adhere. The existing pickup for the live well is closer to the transom. I have a Shurflo 800 and I may be able to get to the auxiliary outflow on it so I won't need another through hull. I only got to change the Shurflo last year while...

As it turns out not much room down there for more than a small bumper and still can't get to the bilge pump. The sonar works well, no loss of bottom at speed so I'm happy with that. Next project is a raw water washdown which will need access to the bilge area that has the through hull for the...

I use this procedure for the deck last year, worked very well, removing blood was a snap.

It's #4 AWG...

I have crimpers for hex and square crimps, I'm set. Gonna cut it in a few days. will report back.

10mm (0.393") translates to between 00 and 000 wire, not that.

It's the main battery cable, it came off the negative battery terminal, it fits a 3/8" stud and the cable, along with it's twin for the positive, lead into the engine harness.

There's not a lot of room in the hatch and I don't need 6 feet of cable for a 1ft run. The current lug is stamped 610 but the wire is at least a 4 if not a 2