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Assuming you mean the whole kit, big ones off the top of my head are pump location and interface. Where you physically locate the pump will drive the hose lengths needed, would also consider planning for the ORB fittings regardless of where it goes, a lot of the a#$pain that came with my...

I put that system on my 265 about a year ago and have been very happy with it, seamless integration with the Raymarine Axiom displays and you could do it without a head unit if you wanted to but as I was replacing the original Simrad unit there was already a hole for the head unit and I'm used...

Would love to see a couple pics once it's all done. Looking to replace mine this summer and struggling between the original blue and something like you've done but have a hard time picturing how it'd look.

Hookup, the ABS carbon fiber with the Axiom displays is 1/8" thick and is only for appearance, it's backed by 1/2" starboard that provides the real strength and rigidity for mounting the displays. The instrument panel and switch panel are both from a 3/16" thick piece of ABS. Got both from...

Skunk, believe it's a different bulkhead, looks like yours is on the outboard side of the helm. Mine is about where the circular access port in your picture is shown. The black enclosure in the earlier pic is what you're seeing in the pic below. It's got an open gap at the bottom for the...

Interesting location. I have the overhead 6-circuit block and the bus bars under the dash as you show but my main 12 circuit block is behind a screw in access plate in the head, far more convenient. This is just inside the door on the aft side bulkhead.

I keep the throwable cushion in the overhead net with the stock orange life jackets - not super practical or accessible but keeps me legal, also have a rope bag. But what I rely on for ready service and keep handy is a Mustang survival stick, cartridge activated upon contact with water just...

I don't know if you'll be able to tell when you order but something to be aware of, I ordered the Blue Sea push button breakers from Amazon and at least one of them, believe it was the 3A, had right angle spades. Moved that switch to the end of the panel and the breaker fit - as it should in...

Looking good Skunk. Is your electronics panel somehow attached from the back - which looks super clean if you pulled it off, or is it just resting for fit and not yet attached?

Like the carabiner with line idea, I have some elastic coiled tether type things that I brought back from a deployment years ago but they're not as functional as the carabiners would be. In addition to the above, I carry the old style boonie caps in the bag as they offer more complete...

Can't say if they're bolted or not but I'd agree with Dennis and say probably not. No issues with them retracting fully outside of operator error not holding the button long enough. I've never liked relying on the sound of the pump as the sign that they're fully retracted as it doesn't seem...

Steiner Predator 8x40. Got them for hunting but they work great on the water as well and are in my carry on boat bag all season. I keep a cheap WM branded pair on the boat as backup or if a kid is on board who wants to be involved, no heartache if they go in the water whereas the Steiners...

Before I went with the oversized panel and the dual 12” screens I had a flush mount insert like you show made with 1/2” starboard and it worked fine for the 10” HDS and 7” Furuno that were in there when I bought the boat. My AP control unit is mounted up above in the space between the two...

I looked at quite a few boats and kept coming back to the 265, couple of key things for me. One, I just really like the lines, everything just flows and seems proportionally 'right'. I like the wider helm that comes with an express style and while it can get cramped I haven't found it to be a...

I used 1/2" Starboard initially, then went back and added a piece of 1/8" carbon fiber ABS plastic that I had leftover from another project. Was solely for appearances but matches what I'd done for the switch and instrument panels and I like how it turned out.

Interested to see which way you go as I'm in the same dilemma but have a few months as I won't do mine until they come down later this year as the weather warms up. Had been thinking to make the move to light but then an older GW moved into my marina that had the cream color and it somehow just...

Spoke too soon. Pulled the email and it did have max's original measurements, 29-7/16" W X 10-5/8" H, 1/2" thick; corners are rounded with a 2" radius. Email for Brown Towles at Fin-Addict is sales@finaddictmarine.com.

Skunk, No added venting. There is some access inside the console area to the larger helm area where cables can be run and then the stuffing tube into the overhead so I suppose there is the potential for a little convective venting to happen but I wouldn't think it's much. Thought about it...

As usual, I agree with everything Skunk said and will second Billv's comment about buying what you can afford. Even if it's overkill for what you're doing today you don't know what you might do tomorrow and more is better if it ever comes time to sell. But I tend to apply the "no one ever...

Skylight or a powered vent in the head would be nice, I've thought about the vent but haven't figured it out yet. Like the idea of a cubby up there, I use the glove box below the helm now but it gets pretty crowded when I start adding crew phones/wallets/keys etc. When I redid my instrument...