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At the suggestion of someone here, I sent an e-mail to GW customer service and they replied within 24 hours with the dims and count for my '94. Not sure if they're the same, but PM me if you want me to fwd the files to you.

Jeff B. at Grady sent the complete size and part number info within 24 hours of my request. Another example of their fine customer service.

Replaced the springs and winch on my '94 last summer with parts from Eastern Marine. I also have an EZ loader. The brakes on the trailer are drums with holes for lug bolts, not studs with lug nuts. It wasn't obvious how to convert this set-up to discs so I decided to let it go until this...

I'm planning on replacing the thru-hulls and deck drains this spring. Searched and read most of the posts on the subject - good stuff. Boat is currently under shrink-wrap 150 miles from home and I'd like to order them from the various online sites listed here. Anyone compiled a list of size...

It will be my first year in OC with my 228 - total rookie. Send me a note if you want to get something going.

Thanks for the input guys. My measurements indicated 2.5-3 ft (min) at low tide so it sounds like its close.

Need to make a decision on a long-term slip. Bottom is typical plough mud. At some point, I'd like to move up to a bigger boat (not with my tax cut !!!). For owners of either a 265 Express or 27 Islander - what is the minimum low water you would feel comfortable with? Thanks in advance.

Can't recall who first posted this link but when I had my livewell out I ordered one to replace the rusted OEM end and it worked out fine. http://www.midwestcontrol.com/buy.php?item=162

Just replaced mine this year with the Shurflow Baitmaster - pricey but works nice. Also added a strainer between the seacock and pump because the Y-valve had lots of crud in it. Replaced that too while I had the baitwell out.

Love my 228 but in a perfect world would "want" the same capabilities/fishing options listed above. Have the 3/4 ton truck (not sure that is a good thing these days) :roll:. Curious as to why the Express is better for fishing.

Thanks for the responses. I do have a charger - just hate to leave the shore power attached since there are (unfortunately) times I don't get to the boat for a week or 10 days, etc.

I'm thinking about adding an extra battery to the boat as a back-up for the bilge pumps since it's in a slip. I already have a starting and deep cycle on a 1-2-ALL but it seems having the extra battery can't hurt. I don't have an aux tank so I thought I'd mount it in a battery box under that...

This post prompted me to pay attention today when I went to the boat - the nosecone and scuppers on my 228G are under water with the OEM Johnson 225 2S. I know I'm light fwd since I don't have a hardtop or an aux tank. When you think of it - it's a pretty tough nav arch problem with so many...

I've pulled my loaded 228 up the ramp with a '06 Chevy 4x4 Trailblazer - after it went down a slippery ramp a foot or two - could have been one of those "shows" everyone enjoys so much. Nevertheless, in my book it's not about moving it - it's about controlling it and stopping it on the...

My 2 Cents Or -- Mine stopped working last week because the small orange wire on the auto retractor which locks the tabs up when the key is turned off fatigued and failed right at the control box. Called Bennett and they offered to replace the retractor control as a warranty covered item if I...

Can't recall who here first posted this, but this is what I ordered and it worked out fine. http://www.midwestcontrol.com/buy.php?item=162

Mix some liquid dish soap and water in a small cup. Before the caulking sets, dip your thumb or finger in the solution and you can flatten / spread / indent the caulk as necessary to get a smooth bead.

For a RH prop the paddlewheel effect tends to pull the stern to stbd, so I think - not sure - that you'd want to mount a kicker with a RH prop to port. Unless you don't want to fuss with moving a swim platform, etc.

I'm in the same situation as you - only 2 weeks ahead. I bought "Powerboater's Guide to Electrical Systems" by Ed Sherman - Helpful. Turns out it's not that difficult if you follow the guidance in the book, and on this forum. I started with the intent of just adding some LED lights and ended...

Aft Bilge Slightly OT but thought I'd mention what I found when I pulled the livewell in my 228G last weekend to replace the failed diverter valve. I noticed that the threaded connection on the extender rod used to operate the thru-hull was BADLY corroded to the point that I believe if I would...