Search results

Are you talking about a BEP module like this? There are no charger leads, you simply attach the leads to the batts as you normally would. The VSRs sense a charge, they automatically combine the batts. Take the charge source away, they isolate them. Simple as that...

Do NOT install a high-speed pickup on your gennie! (The one with the built in scoop) This will force water through the the water pump and can get into the exhaust, which can back down into your cylinders, and the the gennie is toast! Get rid of the kink. Install a new piece of hose that...

Mike, Tighten your negative batt cable, check all the grounds on your gauges and ground bus under the helm. Just as in a car, a ground issue can be hard to track down. But a ground problem is the source of 99.5% of 12VDC issues...

And visa versa, an electrical issue (and it would have to be a big one) in the ship's electrical issue will not cause problems on the motor side...

The fuel gauge pegging to full is a dead giveaway. You have a bad ground. Check the ground terminations on your running lights.

Seasick, Mercury, Suzuki, Honda, all are circuit protected by fuses on the powerhead. The engines electrical is NOT connected to the ships system on the positive side, only through the grounding side. There is no hot lead coming out of the engine harness that runs through the 40A breaker...

This is rather interesting in that typically an engine's electrical system and the boat's electrical system are completely independent of each other except for a common ground.

There definitely will be an in-line fuse on the orange power lead. It comes already installed on the switch from Bennett, but it's kinda chintzy, some builders (we do) replace it with one like this...

There should be a in-line in the orange wire coming off the back of the switch. That wire supplies power to the switch, 20A.

By "banging" on a short length of 2 X 4, the wood won't hurt anything. As for the dash flat where the helm is mounted, that is always very well cored, probably the strongest part of your dash. I have pull probably 250 steering wheels using this method (I was taught it by an old Cuban buddy...

If you took the sender out, moved it by hand, the fuel gauge registered the corresponding amount, then there would appear to be another issue. Put it back in the tank, and it reads empty, although you know the tank is full. Take seasick's advice, pull the sender and stick it in a 5 gal bucket...

How much physical resistance was there when you moved the float? It should move VERY easily.

Fill your bilge up to the batts. It will give you a chance to see if there is any leakage around you garboard drain as well...if your boats on a trailer or lift...

BTW, Seastar Cylinders still have the knurled fitting on the starboard side with the allen head tightening bolt...there never has been a change...

One thing you can do is apply 12V (fed to a wire off your battery) to the bottom terminal of each switch and see what comes on, whether it be a pump or a light. Then label each wire coming off that switch as to it's function.

I needed both the tach and the speedo, as they both did the same as your speedo. Contacted Troy Marine in Carrolton, VA, found him on THT. He got me 2 almost brand new units (faces were perfect) off a de-rig/re-rig for $385 for the both of them. Excellent dude, give him a call...

Depends a great deal on whether your cleats are 6" or 8". That might have been said in the original thread...

Most builders that install batt switches at the factory run the constant hot for the float off batt 1 or 2 on the back side of the switch, not off the batt itself... One fuse, if you have only one float/pump, is for the float, the other would be for stereo memory or another float for a second...

You don't need a big hammer. It's the vibration that breaks the wheel's "death grip" on the shaft...

Boathound, Are you sure your cleats are popping up fully?